IONA, Scotland — There is a Gaelic prediction that whoever goes to Iona will go not once but three times. It is a tiny island, barely 1 1/2 by 3 miles, set across a narrow sound from the large island of Mull in the Hebrides, off the west coast of Scotland. But the richness of its landscapes and its ancient history, and something mysterious and ineffable in its spirit, call the traveler to return.
When you approach Iona by ferry from the small port of Fionnphort on Mull, or by excursion boat from Oban on the mainland, you will see a small village, its front row of stone houses neatly lined along a street facing the water, and behind them, gentle hills painted umber and green.
The island is the property of the National Trust of Scotland, and only 130 people live here year- round. But hundreds descend on Iona every day in summer, drawn by its prominent place in Scottish history, folklore and religion. It is the cradle of Christianity in Scotland and the resting place of numerous kings--clan chieftains--from throughout the Celtic world.
It's best to plan on at least one night on the island, to get a feel for its spirit and appreciate its beauty. Because the day-trippers tend to stay close to the village, where the museum and ruins are clustered, I'd advise checking in with your hotel or B&B when you disembark; then get a map at one of the two shops near the ferry landing and head out on foot. You will find paths to follow, but you may prefer to let the island take you.
People lived on Iona at least as far back as 4000 BC, but the island probably was empty when an Irish monk named Columba landed in 563. He established an evangelical community to bring the Gospel to whomever he and his monks might find. They spread the Christian faith throughout the Hebrides and the Western Highlands and as far as Iceland. The monks who stayed behind on Iona kept historical records, wrote and transcribed poems, prayers and scriptures, illuminated them in Celtic designs and made carvings in stone. Three of their stone crosses, featuring the pagan circle of Earth and sun surrounding the Christian cross of redemption, are sheltered today in Iona's small abbey museum.
The world treasure known as the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript of the four Gospels, very likely was created on Iona in the 8th century, not long before marauding Vikings destroyed the monastery and killed 68 monks. The book was saved--it can be seen in Dublin today--but the religious community went into a long eclipse.
In the 13th century the Benedictines built a large stone monastery, which was joined by an Augustinian convent, renewing the religious presence on the island. But by the end of the 16th century, the dissolution of Roman Catholic communities in the Reformation spelled the end. By the following century the island had become the property of the Duke of Argyll. (His descendant presented the cathedral to the Church of Scotland in 1899.)
Over the years, nature and people needing building materials seriously damaged the monastery, but such was its size, beauty and solidity that the complex was a prime candidate for rescue. Much of it has been restored, an impressive group of buildings with the early 16th century church, now called the abbey, at its heart.
All of these sites are within walking distance of the jetty. After disembarking from the ferry, walk straight ahead to the nunnery ruins and go right, along the island's main road. There will be little traffic, as only year-round residents may bring a car onto the island. The road will take you past tall sycamores, the island's only trees, to the Heritage Center, where you can learn about Iona's history and geology and purchase knitwear made by island women. Continue along the road to the historic St. Columba Hotel and the tiny and wonderful Iona Book Shop, to the Street of the Dead, which leads to the abbey. You will want to visit the abbey, of course, but also try to attend a service there.
A bit farther along the road is the MacLeod Center, which is used for conferences and retreats and is owned by the Iona Community. This is a group of spiritual seekers that has done admirable work restoring and maintaining the abbey and its grounds.
Just past the wee brook is the Iona Pottery, and if you venture out to the north end of the island, past farms and sheep and Traigh Bahn, a retreat house, you will be where the sands are the whitest and the winds most alive.
If you take the only crossroad from the village to the west side, you will find the Machair, a broad expanse of undulating sand and grass, looking for all the world like a natural golf course. In fact, there are 18 holes among the grazing sheep, and no charge for playing.
From there, you can explore the marble quarry and St. Columba's Bay on the southwest end of the island, or find the Hill of the Fort to the north, site of the earliest recorded habitation, in the Iron Age.
