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Cover Story

Diary of a Breakfast Outlaw

Searching for the savory in a sticky bun world.

March 10, 1999|JOHN THORNE | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

* Heat griddle over medium-high heat. When griddle is hot and bacon fat has melted, spoon about 1/4 cup batter onto each greased circle on griddle. As soon as pancakes puff up and bubbles on surface burst and stay open, 2 to 3 minutes, flip, reduce heat to low and cook until lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve at once with butter and syrup on warmed plates.

8 (3- to 4-inch) pancakes. Each pancake without butter and syrup: 96 calories; 129 mg sodium; 30 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 12 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.09 gram fiber.

Baking Pan Corn Bread With Melted Mozzarella

Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes * Vegetarian

1/2 cup stone-ground cornmeal

1/2 cup unbleached flour

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon coarse salt

2 tablespoons butter, softened, plus 2 tablespoons for bread

1 egg, separated

1/2 cup milk

1/4 pound smoked mozzarella

Combine cornmeal, flour, cream of tartar, baking soda and coarse salt in bowl and whisk couple of times to thoroughly mix and break up any lumps.

Stir together 2 tablespoons butter and egg yolk in separate bowl. Beat egg white until soft peaks form and set aside. Add milk to butter-yolk mixture and stir couple of times. Add dry ingredients all at once and stir just to moisten. (This minimal stirring ensures that batter won't be over-mixed). Fold in egg white.

* Pour batter into buttered 8x5-inch loaf pan. Bake at 425 degrees until sides of corn bread pull slightly away from edges of pan, about 20 minutes.

* Cut mozzarella into 8 (1/8-inch-thick) slices. Place mozzarella slices on plate in toaster oven on low setting to melt while corn bread bakes.

* Slice corn bread into 4 pieces and butter 1 side of each slice. Carefully top each slice with 2 slices mozzarella and serve.

2 servings. Each serving: 662 calories; 907 mg sodium; 217 mg cholesterol; 40 grams fat; 53 grams carbohydrates; 22 grams protein; 0.30 gram fiber.

Salami and Eggs

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Thorne uses very, very hard salami and grates it through the largest holes in the grater. If your salami isn't hard enough to grate, mince it.

1 tablespoon butter

2 to 3 tablespoons shredded hard salami

Dash hot pepper sauce

Pepper

2 to 3 eggs, beaten

Hot buttered toast

* Melt butter in nonstick 9-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Add salami, hot pepper sauce and good grating of black pepper. When butter is sizzling, stir butter and seasonings together.

* Add eggs and reduce heat as low as possible. Cook, gently stirring to allow set curds to come to top and liquid egg to run to bottom. Remove from heat as soon as no liquid egg is left but before any is cooked dry, 3 to 4 minutes. Serve over hot buttered toast.

1 serving. Each serving without toast: 325 calories; 581 mg sodium; 474 mg cholesterol; 27 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 17 grams protein; 0 fiber.

Cook's Tip OR INFO BOX

Thorne maintains that corn bread is only as good as the cornmeal you make it with. His favorites are the white flint "jonnycake" meal ground by Tim McTague at Gray's Grist Mill, P.O. Box 422, Adamsville R.I. 02801, (508) 636-6075, and by Richard Morgan at Morgan's Mills, Rural Route 2, Box 4602, Union, ME 04862, (800) 373-2756.

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