Tres Francais, Tres Simple
It happens all the time. a group at a table lingers far longer than usual, throwing off diners with later reservations. How the restaurateur handles the wait situation can make all the difference. I once arrived five minutes early for my reservation at one of L.A.'s most expensive French restaurants only to spend 45 minutes seated on the planter outside because there was nowhere to sit inside. No one thought to offer a glass of water, or even to check on us.
The owners of Lilly's French Cafe & Bar, a new restaurant in Venice, would never let this happen. One night, after my party has waited 10 or 15 minutes for our table, duly noting the abstract paintings on the walls and the inviting banquettes covered in mahogany velvet, a co-owner (both from Lille in the north of France) comes over to tell us the occupants of our prospective table had already paid and were sipping coffee. This evidence of concern is more than many restaurateurs would deign to give, and it was followed by an offer of a drink. A kir, perhaps? Yes! I haven't had one of these classic French aperitifs in years. On an Indian summer night, a glass of sharp white wine dosed with a little creme de cassis, a syrupy liqueur from Burgundy, seems perfect.
A few minutes later we carry our drinks to a corner table on the dusky patio lighted with candles and, at the far end, a tall, old-fashioned street lamp. Beneath it, a dozen celebrants are seated around a long table, where the wine is flowing and everyone is taking turns trying on one of those silly Dobie Gillis fishing hats to gusts of laughter. Standing in the shadows is the pastry chef holding a cake ablaze with candles. When someone gives him the nod, he marches out and presents the cake to the birthday girl. That's when I notice he is wearing shorts and athletic shoes under his towering toque. I can't help commenting that his outfit is tres Californie. He gives me a conspiratorial smile and a happy shrug, admitting that he can't do this in Paris, and sprints off to whip up some more French pastries.
The food at Lilly's is rigorously French. The chef is Catherine Dimanche, who was, in fact, the very first chef at 2424 Pico (now closed) in Santa Monica. At Lilly's, everything is polished and uncontrived, from the house salad--a fluff of fresh greens showered with herbs and tossed in an artfully balanced vinaigrette--to a smoky lentil soup with nuggets of mushrooms or a moist roasted chicken breast, infused with fresh tarragon and served in its juices. Lilly's prices are moderate, too. Almost every entree is well under $20. And a delicious tangle of fresh fettuccine with chanterelles and cream is just $10.
