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It's Tamalada Time

December 13, 2000|MARIA ELENA KENNEDY | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Every year at this time, many Latino families gather to celebrate a fragrant tradition--the tamalada, or tamale-making party.

These family gatherings serve as social affairs where members of the extended family get together to prepare food, catch up on family news and just enjoy spending time together.

For The Record
Los Angeles Times Sunday December 17, 2000 Home Edition Food Part H Page 2 Food Desk 2 inches; 44 words Type of Material: Correction
Incorrect Times: The preparation times for Beef and Mole Tamales, Pork and Cheese Tamales, and Cheese and Chile Tamales ("It's Tamalada Time," Dec. 13) were incorrect. Total preparation time for the meat tamales is 4 1/2 hours. Active work time for the cheese tamales is 1 hour; total preparation time is 2 1/2 hours.

Maria Hernandez has been making tamales for years. Hernandez's tamale-making skills were honed in Ocotlan in the Mexican state of Jalisco.

"My mother would make tamales at Christmas and New Year's as I was growing up," she remembers. "When I came to the United States in 1955, I would make tamales for my children's parties and my mother would help me. One day she said, 'I'm going to let you make them on your own now.' "

From then on, Hernandez' little house in East Los Angeles became the place where her extended family gathers on Christmas Eve to make dozens and dozens of tamales.

"I remember standing at the front doorway waiting for my aunts and uncles," says Hernandez's daughter, Maria Rangel. "I was very anxious to see everyone that one particular day because of the festivities. This was our way of being together. When you're a kid, all you think about is playing and eating."

Hernandez's skills are not only in demand during Christmas but throughout the year. As the head of the Guadalupanas--a group that has a special devotion to Our Lady of Guadalupe--at Our Lady of La Soledad in East Los Angeles, Hernandez and her group make tamales and sell them after Mass as a fund-raiser.

"The priest always says that when Las Guadalupanas is selling tamales after Mass, the people start leaving church before the final blessing," she says with a chuckle. As Thanksgiving approaches, the Guadalupanas stop making tamales for their group so they can get ready for the upcoming holiday season, which includes making scores of tamales for their own families.

Martha Venti of Monterey Park has also been making tamales since she can remember. "I learned to make them from my mother," she says. Now a great-grandmother, Venti--and her husband, Frank--are joined by their children, grandchildren and great-grandchildren the morning of Christmas Eve to start making the tamales they will eat later that night after midnight Mass.

"We have always made tamales. I don't think there's been a year when we haven't made them," she says.

The week before Christmas, Venti makes sure she has all the ingredients to make the tamales. "I start preparing everything the week before. I do all of this before the kids come to start making the tamales. Everyone has a job when we start making them.

"We make an assembly line and the kids start spreading. Now it's also the grand kids and the great-grandkids."

This year, 4-year-old granddaughter Angelica and two great-granddaughters, 4-year-old Briana and 3-year-old Mariah, will join the family assembly line and help continue the family tradition.

Venti makes beef, chicken and pork tamales as well as cheese ones. "Two of my granddaughters are vegetarians, and we make cheese and chile tamales for them," she says. "But everyone else's favorites are the pork and chicken tamales."

Once the tamales are assembled, they are put on to cook around 7 p.m. on Christmas Eve. When the family comes home from midnight Mass, they sit down and enjoy what they've spent the entire day making.

"The next day, we have an open house and people will drop in for tamales," she says. Frank Venti is the mayor of Monterey Park, so the open house is filled not only by family and friends but by people Venti encounters in the course of his work.

"People come in and out all day long," Martha Venti says.

What goes into the tamales is the topic of much concern, but the masa, or dough, is also a very important element. During the holidays, prepared masa can be purchased at most grocery stores in Southern California. But most Mexican cooks will go to their local carniceria to buy their masa and meat.

Everyone who makes tamales has a favorite place to buy masa. La Gloria in East Los Angeles is one place where prepared masa can be purchased fresh year-round. The masa is made daily and can be purchased by the pound.

Hernandez swears by the masa from La Gloria. "They have the best," she declares. Yet Marta Venti says she only buys her masa from either La Pinata in Montebello or Cinco Puntos in East Los Angeles; "There is no difference between the two." It is no wonder, since both places are owned by members of the same family.

The meat that is used for the tamales is also a topic of discussion. At Ochoa's Carniceria in Azusa, the butchers have very definite opinions about which cut is best.

"The breast meat is best for the chicken tamales," says butcher Claudio Palomera. "Put the chicken in a pot of water, with salt, pepper, cumin and oregano. For the pork tamales, shoulder is best. The pork is cooked the same--put the shoulder in a pot of water with salt, pepper and spices. For beef tamales, use chuck roast, as this shreds easily."

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