Anne Willan is one of the best cooking teachers around; her La Varenne cooking school in France is legendary. She has had a PBS cooking series and she has published more than a dozen well-regarded books. But still, almost no one in this country seems to know who she is.
That is a shame and yet, leafing through her newest book, "From My Cha^teau Kitchen" (Clarkson Potter, $45), it is difficult to work up too much sympathy. After all, if one must labor in semi-obscurity (or, more accurately, less-than-celebrity), one could certainly find worse places to do it than the Cha^teau du Fey. That's the 17th century Burgundian pile Willan and her husband, Mark Cherniavsky, share with her cooking school, and it is the subject of this long, loving look.