Three Walks in One Day Along Tomales Bay

Tomales Bay Trail usually escapes the notice of Point Reyes National Seashore hikers for two reasons: It's one of the few footpaths on the east side of the bay and geographically isolated from most of the land and trails on the Point Reyes Peninsula, and it's overshadowed by the similarly named and better known Tomales Point Trail, which traverses the tule elk range on the northern tip of the peninsula.

Tomales Bay Trail offers glimpses into California's tumultuous geologic history. The bay is a submerged rift of the San Andreas Fault. Hikers walk atop the North American Plate (typified by mellow, rolling grassland) and look out at steep, wooded Inverness Ridge (characteristic terrain of the Pacific Plate).

Twelve miles long and a mile wide, the bay is a habitat for about 100 species of shore- and water birds. The bay's shallow waters (less than 10 feet deep in places along its southern end, where the trail passes) nourish an assortment of clams, crabs and oysters, the latter raised commercially.

During the 1970s, the bay's southeastern shores attracted developers, who wanted to buy the 260-acre Elmer Matinelli Ranch and build a resort, golf course and housing development. The National Park Service bought the property, however, and it has remained relatively pristine since.

Directions to trail head: From the hamlet of Point Reyes Station, head north on California Highway 1 for 1.5 miles to a signed National Park Service parking area on the west (left) side of the highway.

The hike: From the north end of the parking area, join the westbound path and soon pass a large rock outcropping. Narrow trails branch from Tomales Bay Trail, but stick with the main path.

About 0.5 mile out, the trail travels near two small, cattail-fringed ponds patrolled by coots and mallards. Keep an eye out for egrets and redwing blackbirds, frequently sighted near these ponds.

After the second pond, the path ascends a small hill, offers fine bay views, then descends to the marshy edge of Tomales Bay. Here you'll find some old levees and trestles--part of the right of way of the North Pacific Railroad, which extended from Sausalito north to the town of Tomales and then up to the Sonoma County coast. The rail line was used from the 1870s until 1933.

You can hike north along the bay shore for a few hundred yards until a fence and intimidating clumps of poison oak halt the prudent hiker.