Visitors could spend an entire vacation in the tourist area, the Zona Dorada or Golden Zone, and never venture to the old part of town, but I think they would miss what makes Mazatlan special.
If you can pull yourself away from the beach, take one morning to head downtown to Viejo, or Old, Mazatlan, an area that's being partly restored. If you prefer a guided tour, stop by the office of Pronatours in the lobby of El Moro tower (part of El Cid Resorts) and sign up for the city tour. If you're more like us (and would rather sit in traffic on a sweltering day with a screaming child than join a tour), jump in an open-air taxi, or pulmonia. If your hotel doorman asks you whether you want an "open" or "closed" taxi, the answer is definitely "open" for optimal sunshine and photo opportunities. There are no meters, so it's always best to negotiate the price before getting into the cab.
We opted for the open taxi on that pivotal spring weekend in 1998 when we came here to see whether we could live in a place that, just a few weeks before, we had known nothing about. I insisted on seeing two things: a grocery store, a practical request for a young family, and the old part of town, to satisfy my desire to live somewhere that was aesthetically pleasing. Mazatlan exceeded my expectations on both counts.
Once we were settled and living here, the trip to the old part of town became a Sunday morning routine. We would head downtown along the Malecon, a combination boulevard/walkway/boardwalk that follows the Pacific Coast for 10 miles. It's great for walking, jogging, bike riding, roller-blading, stroller pushing or people watching-and tricycle riding, Sebastian discovered when he learned to maneuver his three-wheeler. It's busiest on Sunday afternoons and evenings, when families and young couples stroll up and down.
We would make our way to Olas Altas ('high waves') and start with a breakfast at Copa de Leche or the Shrimp Bucket. At Copa, we would sit in the sidewalk cafe and enjoy the view and, often, some live guitar music. The Shrimp Bucket serves a great breakfast, particularly the heaping basket of pan dulce (sweet rolls), shrimp omelets and fresh juices. Breakfast here is a tradition among the local Mazatlecos, while dinner, which I don't recommend, seems to attract more tourists.
