The Awe of Old Mazatlan

About a 35-minute drive from Mazatlan (on the road to La Noria) is Rancho las Moras, a 19th century ranch at the foot of the mountains where tequila was once made. You can spend the night in one of the casitas featuring authentic Mexican furnishings and art, or just go for the day and have lunch, take a horseback ride and have a dip in the pool. The casitas go for about $200 a night. We spent our 11th anniversary weekend there, and because it was June and the slow season, it felt like vacationing on our own private estate. The service can be slow in the poolside restaurant, so be prepared to have a leisurely lunch, and don't go there hungry.

We found the hacienda to be an ideal day trip with our son. Peacocks wander the property, and there are ducks, pigs, horses, baby goats and rabbits to keep the kids entertained while you wait for lunch. It's better to go early in the day; horseback riding stops around 3:30 p.m. A steep walk up to the chapel on the hill is worth the climb for a view of the Sierra Madre foothills and valley.

When friends ask me now whether I miss Mazatlan, my answer is an emphatic yes. I don't miss the heat and humidity of August, or standing in line at the phone company to pay the bill. (If you're visiting and plan well, you'll miss both those experiences.) We're back in the States now, but we've brought home the best parts of Mazatlan. When my son sprinkles chile on his watermelon, can't fathom a party without a pinata and jumps up to dance in the middle of a restaurant, we know that's Mazatlan's gift to its visitors, no matter how long they stay.

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Guidebook: Inside Mazatlan

* Getting there: From LAX, nonstop service to Mazatlan is offered on Alaska and Aero California, and connecting service is offered on Aero California, America West, Mexicana and Aeromexico. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $200.

* Where to stay: Mazatlan does not offer a wide selection of luxury hotels, but the upside is that prices are more reasonable here than in other Pacific Coast towns. By far the nicest options are the Marina El Cid, where we stayed on our initial visit, and the Pueblo Bonito. Marina El Cid, Avenida Camaron Sabalo S/N, P.O. Box 813, Mazatlan, Sinaloa 82110, telephone (800) 525-1925, fax 011-52-69-14-1311, Internet http://www.elcid.com, is a low-rise, Mediterranean-style hotel with two swimming pools, one with water slides and caves, and a hot tub. Every room has a marina view, and some have ocean view. A free shuttle service takes guests to El Cid's other properties (Castilla, El Moro, Granada, Country Club), where they can take advantage of the fitness center and spa, water sports, 27 holes of golf, tennis, shops and restaurants. Doubles begin at $115.