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April 11, 2002|Jessica Strand

Nothing is more French than paper-thin pancakes.

The French Crepe Company: This Farmers Market shop makes savory fillings--chicken, beef, smoked salmon, spinach-mushroom--and sweet ones--applesauce, Nutellaompany, chestnut cream, fruit, chocolate. (Crepes, $2.85 to $6.98.) The French Crepe Company, Los Angeles Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., No. 318, (323) 934-3113.

Le Marmiton: Chef-owner Jean-Marc Kiffer fills crepes with spinach mousseline, chicken and mushrooms or salmon mousse and serves them with ratatouille and salad. His dessert crepes, served with berries and ice cream, feature Grand Marnier or chocolate and orange sauce. (Savory crepes, $9.95, sweet crepes, $6.95.) Le Marmiton, 1327 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 393-7716.

La Parisienne: At lunch, chef Daniel Durfort rolls his crepes into tight cigars filled with chicken and mushrooms, spinach and ham or scallops, shrimp and lobster. Each comes with salad and roasted potatoes. On the evening menu, you'll find crepes suzette for dessert. (All crepes, $10.) La Parisienne, 101 E. Huntington Drive, Monrovia, (626) 357-3359.

La Frite: Three crepes are folded over such fillings as crab, ratatouille or sausage and cheese, then baked until crisp on top. Dessert crepes are filled with berries and topped with whipped cream. (Crepes, $9 to $10.25.) La Frite, 15013 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 990-1791; 22616 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, (818) 225-1331.

Cafe Pascal: The savory crepes, each neatly folded into a square, are filled with chicken and mushrooms, tuna or ham with Gruyere or smoked salmon with goat cheese. The triangular sweet crepes, served with strawberries and whipped cream, contain brown sugar, Nutellaompany, orange liqueur, homemade applesauce, jam or strawberries. (Crepes, $3.95 to $8.75.) Cafe Pascal, South Coast Plaza, 333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 751-4911.

Cafe Pierre: Here's an elegant dessert: three folded mocha crepes surround a dollop of mascarpone mixed with hazelnuts. (Mocha crepes, $6.) Cafe Pierre, 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, (310) 545-5252.

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