But a cook should think like a careful martini maker and choose the best liquor possible. Cooking is not like mixing a rum and Coke, when you can count on the stronger, sweeter component to hide the roughness of the liquor. The levels of flavor start with the alcohol, and what is known as sipping alcohol is the best. Old Grand-Dad might be fine for a mint julep, for instance, but something like Maker's Mark or Woodford Reserve is more nuanced for cooking.
If that seems extravagant, just remember that less is more with alcohol. Just a few tablespoons can flavor a whole pie, or a side dish for six, or a sauce for a whole turkey. You might need a cupful for a dry old fruitcake, but waving the bottle over a tart is almost enough.
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Chocolate framboise tart
Total time: 25 minutes, plus 1 1/2 hours chilling
Servings: 10 to 12
Note: This is adapted from a Joel Robuchon concept. For a more gentle taste, use a raspberry liqueur, such as Chambord, instead of the framboise; if so, use 1/3 cup liqueur and 3/4 cup whipping cream.
Pastry
11 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/3cup sugar
1 egg yolk
1 egg
2 cups cake flour
1. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the yolk and egg, mixing to incorporate. Add the flour slowly and blend. Form the dough into a flat disk, wrap in plastic and chill 1 hour.
2. On a lightly floured board, roll out the dough to 1/4 inch thick. Drape over the rolling pin and fit into a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Press the dough tightly into the corners and edges. Pinch off the top edge to be flush with the pan. Set in the freezer 30 minutes.
3. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Line the shell with foil then fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake in the lower third of the oven until pale golden, 15 minutes. Remove weights or beans and bake another 5 minutes.
Assembly
3/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
7 ounces top-quality bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/4 cup framboise
1 egg, lightly beaten
Whipped cream, for garnish
1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees.
2. Bring the cream to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the chocolate, stirring until the mixture is completely melted. Let cool slightly, then stir in the framboise and mix until well blended. Stir in the egg and mix again until well-blended.
3. Pour the chocolate mixture into the prebaked tart shell. Bake the tart just until the edges are set and the center is still trembling, 12 to 15 minutes; do not overbake. Transfer to a rack to cool slightly.
4. To serve, cut the tart into thin wedges and serve with plain whipped cream.
Each of 12 servings: 335 calories; 18 mg. sodium; 93 mg. cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 12 grams saturated fat; 35 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 1.54 grams fiber.
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Bourbon pecans
Total time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Servings: 16-20 (About 4 1/2 cups)
1/2 cup top-quality Bourbon
1 pound pecan halves
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon bitters, such as
angostura
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon corn oil
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Simmer Bourbon until reduced to 3 tablespoons. Blanch pecans in boiling water 1 minute. Drain. Combine Bourbon, sugar, bitters, Worcestershire and corn oil. Add hot pecans and toss. Let stand 10 minutes. Spread pecans in a single layer on a large baking sheet. Roast until the pecans are crisp and the liquid has evaporated, 30 to 40 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. Turn nuts into a clean bowl.
2. Combine cayenne, salt, pepper and cumin and toss with nuts.
Each serving: 189 calories; 69 mg. sodium; 0 cholesterol; 16 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 2.07 grams fiber.
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Braised red cabbage and cranberries with juniper and gin
Total time: 20 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 cups thinly sliced red
cabbage (about 1/2 cored head)
1 cup fresh cranberries, slightly crushed
Coarse sea salt
12 juniper berries, crushed
1/2 cup gin
1-2 tablespoons honey,
or to taste
Freshly ground pepper
1. Melt the butter in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Add the cabbage and cranberries, sprinkle liberally with salt and stir until completely coated with the butter. Stir in the juniper berries and gin. Lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer, stirring often, until the cabbage is just tender, about 12 minutes. Add honey to taste, leaving the cabbage fairly tart. Season with more salt and pepper.
Each serving: 144 calories; 56 mg. sodium; 16 mg. cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 5.71 grams fiber.
