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Store Design May Be Bold, but It Doesn't Fit Quite Right

Rem Koolhaas' concept for a Prada showroom tends toward gestures that are over the top.

Architecture Review

January 18, 2002|NICOLAI OUROUSSOFF, TIMES ARCHITECTURE CRITIC

NEW YORK — The opening of a clothing store is rarely a major architectural event. But the new Prada boutique in SoHo, designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, is no normal store.

The project pairs one of the world's most talented architects with a fashion powerhouse known for making bold creative leaps. Koolhaas' reputation as a radical urban thinker dates to the 1978 publication of his first book, "Delirious New York." In recent years, he has landed a string of impressive commissions, including a concert hall in Porto, Portugal, scheduled for completion in 2003, and a major redesign for the Los Angeles County Museum of Art's Wilshire Boulevard campus. Prada, meanwhile, has invested $40 million in the New York store, making it one of the most expensive commercial projects, per square foot, in the city's history. With such resources at his disposal, Koolhaas was expected to shake up the fashion establishment, to reinvent shopping for the 21st century. But despite a wealth of technological gadgetry, the project lacks both the conceptual clarity we have come to expect from Koolhaas' firm, the Office for Metropolitan Architecture, and the elegance associated with Prada. Worse, the store opens at a time when New York--still suffering from the aftermath of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks--is recoiling from gestures of conspicuous consumption. The result comes off as more self-indulgent than savvy, a relic from a time when over-the-top opulence was still the norm.


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The store occupies a block-long site at the corner of Prince Street and Broadway that was once occupied by the Guggenheim Museum's SoHo branch. (The museum has moved into a smaller space next door.) The entire project is dominated by what Koolhaas calls the Wave--a concave form that swoops down from just beyond the entry to basement level and back up again. On one side, the ramp is equipped with rows of bleacher-like seating; on the other, its smooth, zebra wood surface evokes a skateboard ramp.

The Wave performs a dual function. During the day, the seating is used to display shoes. At night, the Wave can be transformed into a 150-seat theater. The shoes are packed away. Opposite, a large mechanical platform flips down to provide a stage. Koolhaas originally envisioned the Guggenheim using this space for art events. But the museum pulled out after Sept. 11, and the space now will be run by the Prada Foundation, which until now has mostly promoted the work of contemporary artists.

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