YOU ARE HERE: LAT HomeCollections

The World

India Holy Man Is Seeking Communion at 13,500 Feet


PINDARI, India — The goddess, they say, should not come to you easily. So the holy man seeks her every year by trekking for three days high into the Himalayas.

He climbs to a hand-built hut 13,500 feet up, where oxygen fades and nothing grows but a few wisps of grass.

Here, in the deep Himalayan wilderness, Swami Dharamand -- mystic, ascetic, mountaineer and man of deep curiosity -- seeks communion with the Hindu goddess Devi Annapurna.

Hindus have long seen the Himalayas as a place of purity and ennoblement. Many trekkers also speak of the mountains' mystical appeal -- the beauty, the isolation, the challenge. It's a place where people of many faiths come seeking their gods.

Dharamand, a 32-year-old Hindu holy man, has been wandering India since leaving his far-off village 16 years ago. He left the world behind: no sex, no shaving, long periods spent in meditation.

From his hut, he sees a mountain named for his goddess and speaks of it worshipfully: "In the moonlight, you cannot look at her for too long. She is so beautiful, so beautiful, you will die."

But all is not isolation. Dharamand, normally clad in just a thin saffron robe and nearly always smiling, is profoundly curious about the world he cast aside.

When he comes down from the mountain every winter, when the cold grows too intense and the snow too deep, he meets friends and followers throughout India. And he talks. He loves to talk. He talks about cameras and CD players, about mountaineering gear, about Bill Gates.

His hut is a combination of modern practicality and medieval asceticism: The simple structure was assembled by hand but it holds vacuum-sealed dinners given by trekkers, 13 varieties of South Indian pickles and more. It's a hard three-day walk to the nearest telephone, but he has one of the world's highest-altitude toilets.

More than anything, Dharamand shares.

His life is a cycle of sharing: Donations of money flow through his fingers and on to others. Gifts left by mountaineers later turn up in villagers' huts. Help is returned in ways both material and spiritual, whether it's leaving a Gortex jacket with a young villager or giving guidance to a follower in one of India's sprawling cities.

Los Angeles Times Articles