Getting there: From LAX, Qantas flies nonstop to Sydney, then to Adelaide. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,598. Round-trip fares from Adelaide to Kingscote on Hazelton Air begin at $60. Emu Airways flies six times daily to the island; restricted round-trip adult fares begin at $112.
SeaLink, 8553-1122, fax 8202-8666, www.sealink.com.au, operates ferries from Cape Jervis on the mainland to Penneshaw. The 10-mile trip takes 45 minutes. Round-trip fares are $35 per adult, $18 per child, $76 and up per vehicle (depending on length).
There is no taxi service, but Budget, (800) 527-0700, www.budget.com, and Hertz, (800) 654-3001, www.hertz.com, have local offices. Cars may be reserved in the U.S.
Telephones: To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 61 (country code for Australia), 8 (local code) and the local number.
Where to stay: Hannaford's of Kangaroo Island, Snelling Beach, 8559-2248, fax 8559-2292. Cliff House has three bedrooms and rents for about $137 a night, and Hannaford's also has two other self-catering cottages with beach views nearby.
Hannaford's is one of six beach-side properties in the Kangaroo Island Coastal Connections network. For more information, go to www.kangarooislandcoastalconnections.com.au.
Kangaroo Island Wilderness Resort, 8559-7275, fax 8559-
7377, www.austdreaming.com.au/ki_resort.htm, opened last December on 113 acres of bush land near the entrance to Flinders Chase National Park. It has 25 doubles with upscale rustic decor, which start at about $88. Breakfast is included. The resort has a restaurant and will arrange tours.
Wanderers Rest of Kangaroo Island, Bayview Road, American River, 8553-7140, fax 8553-7282, www.wanderersrest.com.au, has nine simply decorated rooms with calico spreads, balconies, views of Eastern Cove and American River and rates that begin at $104, double, which includes a cooked breakfast. The restaurant is a la carte, specializing in local produce. Be sure to sample the bread-and-butter pudding served with ice cream. Another house specialty is grilled King George whiting at $12. Wines, including local ones, are served. Non-guests are welcome, but bookings are essential. The hotel has a pool and full facilities; no children younger than 12.
Kangaroo Island Lodge, 8553-7053, fax 8553-7030, www.kilodge.com.au, has bay-view and poolside rooms and holiday packages that include room, continental breakfast, ferry round trip out of Cape Jervis for two adults and a car, and a discount voucher for fishing and touring. Doubles without breakfast start at $69 a day. Where to eat: 2 Birds & a Squid Food Co., Redbanks Road, American River, 8553-7406. Chef and owner Sue Pearson caters picnics
as well as meals at your accommodations. Our ample picnic lunches were about $13 a head. (There is an extra fee for delivery, based on the order.) Menus are made using mostly local products. The company requires seven days' notice to guarantee menu availability and a 50% deposit. Its chefs also will come to the visitor's location and cook. Quotes available on request.
PK's Lighthouse Cafe, Shop 7, Queenscliff Village, Dauncy Street, Kingscote, 8553-2089, does breakfast, lunch, snacks and catering and has the island's largest choice of teas and coffees. Open 8 a.m.-
6 p.m. Monday-Saturday. Fish and chips is about $7, and the plate of Kangaroo Island cheeses with coffee or tea is $8.50 for two.
For more information: Kangaroo Island's Gateway Visitor Information Centre,
P.O. Box 336S, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island 5222, Australia; www.tourkangarooisland.com.au.
Australian Tourist Commission, 2049 Century Park East, Suite 1920, Los Angeles, CA 90067; (800) 369-6863, www.australia.com.