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RESTAURANTS | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

Breakfast for the night owl

August 18, 2004|Leslee Komaiko

It's 1 a.m. You've finally finished editing that film sequence, or dancing up a storm. Whatever the particular circumstances, one thing is certain: You want breakfast. But not just any breakfast: You want a stylish, interesting breakfast.

Paladar, the trendy modern Cuban spot in the heart of Hollywood, just debuted a Menu de la Noche, offered from 11:30 p.m. to 4 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays. The menu includes an egg and chorizo burrito, El Classico (two eggs any style with applewood-smoked bacon and spicy frites) and steak and eggs with a 4-ounce grilled skirt steak.

At Kate Mantilini, a 9-ounce New York steak with eggs is one of nearly a dozen breakfast dishes on the late supper menu, served until 1 a.m. Monday through Thursday and 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. There are also two varieties of French toast (one made with thick slices of challah that are deep fried, and the other made with a batter that includes Grand Marnier); chunky corned beef hash; and "Barry's Breakfast," a combination of grilled Italian sausages and eggs scrambled with onions named in honor of the restaurant's CPA.

According to chef-owner David Lewis, the restaurant's late-night breakfast items are in the tradition of "old-time restaurants where you could get martinis and eggs late at night."

At the restaurants at the Standard, Downtown and the Standard, Hollywood, you can create your own three-item omelet in the middle of the night.

The two Pacific Dining Cars, downtown (where there's a 2 a.m. rush when the clubs close) and in Santa Monica, begin breakfast service at 11 p.m. with offerings that include blueberry pancakes, eggs Sardou (here, artichoke bottoms topped with creamed spinach, poached egg and hollandaise) and roast beef hash.

-- Leslee Komaiko

Small bites

* Kai is to open by the end of the month in the former Rebecca's space in Santa Monica. Co-owner Mark Jeanetta calls it an "upscale Polynesian lounge." The interior will feature a large U-shaped bar and a "water wall" onto which a video of a dancing Tahitian woman will be projected. The two patios will be embellished with fire pits and porch swings. Chef Nobu Hamazaki, who has done stints at Sushi Roku and Koi, will be sending out mostly small plates such as Kobe beef carpaccio with garlic soy sauce and lobster papillote.

Kai, 101 Broadway, Santa Monica, (310) 434-1511.

* 310 Lounge & Bistro has opened on the Westside in the space that was once home to Flynt's. Chef Nicholas Coe operated Nick's in South Pasadena from 1998 to 2001. Here, his modern bistro menu includes dishes such as warm asparagus with Spanish Tetilla cheese, orange and morels, and Jidori chicken braised with prunes, olives, chorizo and garlic. The restaurant serves dinner nightly. (Night owls note: It's open until 1 a.m. Thursday through Saturday.)

310 Lounge & Bistro, 3321 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 453-5001.

* Zax in Brentwood has a new chef, Sara Levine. (Former chef Gavin Portsmouth left to open a place with Patricia Yeo in New York's ultra-trendy meatpacking district.) Levine was executive sous-chef at Whist, then at Vibrato before taking the helm here. She says her food is "more rustic" than Portsmouth's, adding, "He was a little more Asian-French inspired. I'm reorienting the menu toward California-Mediterranean." Think white peach salad with prosciutto or a duo of duck with black Mission figs and caramelized endive.

Zax, 11604 San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 571-3800.

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