2002 Red Horse Ranch Paso Robles Zinfandel Templeton Gap

Jammy Zins just don't do it for me. But the 2002 Red Horse Ranch Zinfandel from grapes grown in Templeton Gap is unusually focused and elegant. Winemaker Dan Kleck does not subscribe to the pancake syrup school of California Zins. Without exaggerating a thing, he's produced a vibrant Zinfandel with real varietal character and nuanced layers. This is one Zin that will hold your interest for more than a couple of sips.

-- S. Irene Virbila

*

Quick swirl

Region: Paso Robles

Price: About $24

Style: Restrained and sophisticated

Food it goes with: Red meat -- roasts, braises, barbecues

Where you find it: Bacchus in Manhattan Beach, (310) 372-2021; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Wades Wines in Westlake Village, (818) 597-9463