NASIRIYA, Iraq — The bride and groom emerge from the temple to climb down the slopes of a riverbank fetid with garbage, and pause at the water's edge to pray before wading in.
"Please cleanse my soul of the sins of this material life," they say. Then they crouch down in the river, bow their heads to accept the cold splashes doled out by their cleric and swallow the river water he dribbles into their mouths.
"Water represents life," said Sheik Khalef Abed Rabba, spiritual leader of the Baghdad temple of the Mandaean Sabians. "It should be running water, living water."
For centuries the Mandaean Sabians have clung to the marshes and rivers of Iraq, drawn tight into closed communities while monarchies and tyrannies washed past. The Gnostic sect is so ancient that its roots are lost in the distant blur of the pre-Christian Middle East. Tens of thousands remain today around temples along the trash-strewn banks of the Tigris and Euphrates, facing an uncertain future in a land of upheaval.
The water came first, they will tell you, and from water flowed everything else: fish and ducks; gold and wisdom. They call themselves "followers of the word of brightness." Mandaean Sabians claim John the Baptist as their savior, and favor dinners of fish or duck because they believe river-dwelling animals have the cleanest flesh.
When they want to find God, Mandaean Sabians wade into the murky waters, face north and pray in the Aramaic tongue they've preserved through the ages. Every Sunday, up and down the length of Iraq, they gather on riverbanks for weddings and to ask forgiveness through baptism in running water.
During Saddam Hussein's regime, years the Mandaean Sabians spent hunkered in their cloistered communities while their country dried up, water came to represent the many things Iraq was losing.
The regime drained the marshes and dammed the rivers. Mandaean temples were seized by Hussein, and the sect was banned from erecting new houses of worship. Some members were killed.
But now the marshes are wet again, and the rivers full. This has been Iraq's rainiest winter in nearly a decade -- and the Mandaean Sabians are hoping for a renaissance.
"The dictator did not allow us to express our religion freely," said Toma Zeki Zehrun, the Mandaean secretary of affairs in Baghdad. "Now it is time." A quiet people who preach peace and traditionally shy from authority, the Mandaean Sabians are pushing cannily into politics. They have opened a rudimentary lobbying campaign to protect their rights during Iraq's political formation and have enlisted spokesmen to meet with political and religious figures.
All the while, they are reminding anybody who will listen that they are a test for Iraq's nascent government. The quality of Iraq's democracy will show itself in the protection of its minorities, they argue.
The Mandaean Sabians want permission, never granted under Hussein, to build schools to educate their children in their language. The sect also expects representation in the Iraqi Governing Council and is pushing for a mention in the Iraqi constitution.
"We would like to fix our religion as a religion of Iraq," Zeki Zehrun said. "We demand strongly to prove our existence, and to participate in the political process." But with opportunity comes danger. Mandaean Sabians are vulnerable and isolated in a newly lawless Iraq. Moreover, some Islamists are taking advantage of the demise of the secular regime by leading a sort of vigilante push to impose Islamic code on Iraqi society. Christians and other minorities, including the Mandaean Sabians, have suffered most, especially in the south.
Here in the southern city of Nasiriya, a predominantly Shiite Muslim region, Mandaean Sabians are particularly worried about protecting their weekly baptism rituals. Muslims regard the rites either as charming curiosities or infidel shows of paganism. The sect has been accused of worshipping images, and threats to the Baghdad temple have driven its rituals indoors, away from the river and into the white pools built within the temple walls.
"If we go outside now without veils, they are oppressing us, even chasing us back to our houses," said 21-year-old Shaena Abdel Salam, a technology student who stood at the edge of the wedding party, clapping eagerly in time to the chants. "They don't like us. They want us to be Muslims."
Because the Mandaean Sabians are known as goldsmiths, members of the sect have been targeted by kidnappers and held for ransom. "They think we are rich," complained Nofel Adel, whose 15-year-old nephew was snatched on his way to school. The family had to scrape together $60,000 to secure his release.