Simplicity along the Mekong

Later that day we visited the Hmong village of Coair te Nung, about 10 miles away on the road to Vientiane. We had been told a festival was in progress, and when we arrived, we found hundreds of Hmong in their native dress -- black with neon trim and elaborate tribal headdresses -- playing carnival games. Unlike Hmong villages we had visited in Thailand and Vietnam, this is not a staged production for tourists. In fact, we appeared to be the only Westerners there.

Such experiences make Louangphrabang unique for foreign visitors, but I worry it may not last long. In this generally poor country, the government seems to welcome obvious signs of capitalism in Louangphrabang.

In the last four years, shop-houses, once devoted to processing rice, have been converted to boutiques, European-style pastry shops, restaurants and souvenir stores. We counted at least eight Internet cafes.

The city, long a mecca for backpackers, is catering to more upscale visitors, and well-heeled Western travelers are adding it to their itineraries.

Louangphrabang is a place to visit before it is overrun.

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Tucked away

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, Thai Airways has connecting flights to Louangphrabang. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,308.

TELEPHONES:

To call numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 856 (country code for Laos), 71 (the code for Louangphrabang) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Rates include a 10% service charge and 10% government tax.

Villa Santi Hotel, Sakkarine Road; 252-157, www.villasantihotel.com. We stayed at this conveniently located hotel on Xiang Thong Road in the center of Louangphrabang. Doubles in dry season from $80, including buffet breakfast and round-trip airport transfers.

3 Nagas Guest House, Sakkarine Road; 252-079, www.3nagas.com. A new small French-run guesthouse down the street from Villa Santi. Rates from $90, including breakfast.

Pansea Hotel and Resort, Phou Vao Road; 212-194, www.pansea.com. Five-star hotel, part of an Asian resort chain, is several miles out of town in a not especially scenic spot. The hotel offers a free shuttle into Louangphrabang. Doubles from $200 per night, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT:

We never had a bad meal in Louangphrabang and spent only $4 to $8 on lunch or dinner for the three of us. The only restaurant that disappointed us was at Villa Santi. We found the seasonings in the food too bland and the prices higher than at other establishments.