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Simplicity along the Mekong

Louangphrabang, the former royal capital, has great Southeast Asian cuisine and culture that is still unspoiled by tourist trappings.

DESTINATION: LAOS

January 18, 2004|Deborah L. Jacobs, Special to The Times

Louangphrabang, unlike most cities in Southeast Asia, doesn't have much street food, though we sampled such snacks as waffles, coconut custard cups and fried taro chips from street vendors. We drank only bottled water, which was readily available.

Indochina Spirit, 50-51 An Vat That Road, 253-080. We liked the green papaya salad, Mekong seaweed and pad Thai.


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Park Houay Mixay, 75-6 Ban Xieng Mouane; 212-260. This was our favorite restaurant in the city. We enjoyed the Louangphrabang sausage, Louangphrabang salad, fish-head soup and shredded chicken salad with coriander, mint, lime and chiles.

INFO TO GO:

Visas are required: A 15-day tourist visa costs $30 on arrival at Louangphrabang Airport. You will need a passport-size photo with your application.

The best time to go is October through March, the dry season.

TO LEARN MORE:

Embassy of Lao People's Democratic Republic, 2222 S St., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20008; (202) 332-6416 www.laoembassy.com.

-- Deborah L. Jacobs

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