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Italiano, si; romano, no

June 16, 2004

I enjoyed your article about Roman cooking last week ("A Virtual Roman Holiday," by Leslie Brenner, June 2). Being from Rome, I appreciate that finally the food of the capital is recognized. But oh my ... the recipes! The author lived in Rome for many years, but I am afraid she didn't learn the real essence of Roman cooking. Artichokes cooked in wine and halved? Crostini di fegato, pappardelle alla lepre, orecchiette? In Rome? I start doubting this person has even seen Rome, or maybe she got it confused with other regions (Tuscany, Apulia). It is true we say "parla come mangi," meaning speak how you eat, speak clearly: Well, the author doesn't know how to speak Roman.

Pietro Mascioni

Los Angeles

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