Everyone in Wilmington knows the dividing line. It slices this pocket-sized community in two, marking east and west. Flowing straight through the center, Avalon Boulevard is etched on the harbor town's psyche like sea-green tattoos on the biceps of some of its men.
It is the unofficial border that back in the 1950s separated whites from Latinos, the well-to-do from those living hand-to-mouth. The east-west divide endured for five decades, even as the population turned overwhelmingly Latino. Residents say they are from the east or west side of town. Gangs define themselves by the geography, calling themselves the West Side Wilmas and the East Side Wilmas.
In recent months, however, the generations-old boundary has begun to blur.
The impending opening of a long-fought-for recreation center will help bring parity to the underserved east, where residents often feared crossing Avalon into rival gang territory.
On both sides, common problems are under attack. After years of rampant illegal dumping, new anti-nuisance laws are being enforced. And the largest gang injunction in Los Angeles has brought a newfound sense of security to the thousands of residents menaced by gang life.
The results are evident. Graffiti are minimal and crime is down. Gang members rarely gather in public view. Families and children play in parks until sunset.
Wilmington's first farmers market began peddling produce and serving up crepes in September, and a new park dedicated last week marks the first step toward waterfront redevelopment.
"I've worked here for the last 25 years, and I've never seen such a surge of community pride and optimism and activism," said Patrick Wilson, an officer on the Wilmington Neighborhood Council and president of the local chamber of commerce. "I think Wilmington's headed toward a renaissance."
To outsiders, little distinguishes the east from the west. On one side of Avalon are Mexican restaurants, pupuserias and strip malls. On the other side of Avalon, more Mexican restaurants, pupuserias and strip malls. On the east side of town, large families crowd small, colorful houses. On the west side, it's much the same.
Looming over it all are the massive cranes and walls of containers of the Port of Los Angeles. The economic engine of the region, the port also is this town's nemesis, burdening it with the byproducts of world trade: industrial junkyards, heavy truck traffic, noise and air pollution.
