Sleep tight, and then revel in luxury all day

Fortunately, right across the street from the Montage is one of the better-kept secrets of Laguna Beach: the Laguna Reef Inn, long among the least expensive places to stay here. Because it's a couple of miles south of downtown, off a shopping strip and without the cachet of the Montage, its prices are lower. A Saturday night at the inn, with continental breakfast, was $145 plus tax.

The Laguna Reef would work just fine for the 24-hour change of pace I planned, a mother's short respite from weekend chores, children's squabbles and animated movies. From there, I planned to take advantage of the many lovely things about the Montage that don't require being an overnight guest.

Below the Montage, the unspoiled tide pools, the beach and the beautifully manicured park on the bluffs are public. The hotel lobby also serves as a lounge where anyone can order a drink. The Montage's spa sells a day pass for $25. I could even throw in an hour massage there and still end up spending less than I would if I were to stay overnight at the ritzy hotel -- if a single weekend night were even possible.

The Laguna Reef was once just a basic motor inn, with the classic two-story, courtyard configuration. Years ago, the courtyard was planted with a jungle of exotic plants, giving the inn a softer, more upscale look. My upstairs room didn't have the marble of the Montage, but the rattan furniture was pretty and new-looking, the open-beam ceiling a nice touch. There was even a simple kitchenette with a refrigerator, microwave and kitchen table. The bathroom was basic, with a shower stall.

It was a warm Saturday in early April, so I spent the afternoon in and around the Laguna Reef's small pool and Jacuzzi -- a pleasant area with lots of plants and cozy groupings of chairs and lounges. But to greet the sunset, I wanted to be at the Montage, so my first excursion was a walk by the ocean and tea in the lobby lounge.

The walk to the Montage took three minutes, and most of that was spent waiting for the "walk" light to cross South Coast Highway. I took the steep flight of stairs next to the Montage down to the city's public park, with its meandering walkways, lush flowerbeds and strategically placed benches. As I looked out onto the ocean, dolphins danced offshore in the calm waters.

I walked back up the stairs to the Montage, where the first step into the lobby was breathtaking -- the Pacific Ocean spread out through the floor-to-ceiling windows before me. Heavily cushioned sofas and chairs in cream and gold were scattered in intimate groupings, the seating for a pricey bar.

I don't spend as much for most bottles of wine as they charge for a glass here, with Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon selling for up to $35. But a big pot of oolong tea cost only $6 (it's plenty for two people), the cup and saucer were delicately traced with painted flowers, and the attentive server brought a bowl of chocolate-dipped biscotti pieces.

Attire here ranged from formalwear to flip-flops, mostly the latter, and no one seemed to care. Everyone was too busy smiling at the red-and-peach-colored sky and dark-blue ocean as the sun touched sea.

For dinner, I wasn't planning to pay anything like Montage prices. There are three restaurants there, two of which serve dinner. At all three, even a bowl of soup costs about $15. In the shopping center just across the street, at a little "fresh Mexican" eatery called La Sirena Grill, I got a huge veggie quesadilla, a little messy but wonderful, and a beer, for about $10. I sat at one of the outside picnic tables, with a view of the darkening ocean.

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Sampling the spa

Sunday morning was for serious pampering. I bought a day pass at the Montage spa, and was shown around by a friendly staffer named Natalya. I started out with a guided beach stroll and stretch class along the beach -- pleasant but hardly a workout. The spa has other classes throughout the day, such as Piloga, a mix of Pilates and yoga, and Beach Boot Camp, with interval training and sprints.