The perfect burger

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

4 large garlic cloves, grated or minced (about 1 heaping tablespoon)

1. Put the mayonnaise in a small bowl. Whisk in the olive oil and lemon juice. Stir in the salt and half the garlic.

2. Taste, and add more garlic, salt and/or lemon juice if needed.

Each teaspoon: 39 calories; 0 protein; 0 carbohydrate; 0 fiber; 4 grams fat; 0 saturated fat; 3 mg. cholesterol; 32 mg. sodium.

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Anchovy and olive mayonnaise

Total time: 5 minutes

Servings: Makes a heaping 1/2 cup

Note: From Nancy Silverton's upcoming book, "Twist of the Wrist."

1/2 cup garlic mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon anchovy paste or 3 anchovy fillets in oil, smashed with the back of a knife

2 teaspoons olive tapenade

2 teaspoons finely chopped Italian parsley leaves

1. Put the garlic mayonnaise in a small bowl. Add the anchovy paste, olive tapenade and parsley. Stir to mix.

Each teaspoon: 51 calories; 2 grams protein; 0 carbohydrate; 0 fiber; 5 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 8 mg. cholesterol; 240 mg. sodium.