Saudis Gingerly Experiment With Democracy
RIYADH, Saudi Arabia — When the last strains of the day's final prayer call have rung off over the sands, the voters come through the darkness to a scabby, vacant lot. The political candidate has pitched a tent here, set out potted ficus trees and brought portable spotlights that wheel up into the desert sky.
In this makeshift political hall here in the capital, two economics professors lecture earnestly on privatization. Lured by the novelty of elections in an absolute monarchy, 100 men sip tiny cups of bitter coffee and nod over campaign pamphlets. Little boys cling to their fathers' hands. There's not a woman in sight.
This is the campaign trail, Saudi style. In the first nationwide elections in the kingdom's history, eligible Saudis will elect members of municipal councils in voting that begins today.
With ballots still being counted from last month's Iraqi election, this vote has been touted by Saudi, American and British officials as another important stroke of reform in the Middle East. Yet the polling in Saudi Arabia is both progressive and retrograde. It is evidence of a slight political opening, but also a reminder of just how deeply undemocratic this region remains.
Only half the seats on the councils will be decided by elections; the other half will be picked by the ruling House of Saud. Women can't vote or run as candidates. Some women are hoping the royal family will at least appoint some female council members, but there's no word on whether that will happen.
"We don't take it seriously. It's a joke," said Hatoon Ajwad Fassi, a woman who teaches history at Riyadh's King Saud University. "It's too bad they're not aware of the loss the country is suffering by not having women participate."
In this particular campaign tent, supporters of candidate Abdulaziz Alomary fretted that he'd done himself grave political damage by allowing a female journalist to visit.
Others barred from voting include members of the military and expatriates; the legal voting age is 21. Registration has been sluggish, with many voters skeptical, others openly scornful. The councils are a new concept in Saudi Arabia, and whether they will have significant authority, or be effective, remains a mystery.
Still, if Saudis are tepid about the prospect of casting ballots, they are tripping over one another to run for office. In Riyadh alone, almost 1,800 candidates are competing for 127 positions.
