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Understudy to the Riviera

Montenegro may lack polish, but its setting and prices make a trip to the Balkans worth it.

October 02, 2005|Susan Spano, Times Staff Writer

From LAX, Lufthansa has connecting flights (one change of plane to Montenegro Airlines) three days a week to Podgorica. United, Air France and Air Tahiti Nui have connecting flights (three changes of planes). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,020 until Oct. 31, dropping to $848 until Dec. 10. There are car-rental agencies at the airports and in major towns such as Budva.


For The Record
Los Angeles Times Tuesday October 11, 2005 Home Edition Main News Part A Page 2 National Desk 1 inches; 30 words Type of Material: Correction
Montenegrin church -- An Oct. 2 article in the Travel section on Montenegro incorrectly identified the church atop the island Hotel Sveti Stefan as Greek Orthodox. It is Serbian Orthodox.
For The Record
Los Angeles Times Sunday October 16, 2005 Home Edition Travel Part L Page 3 Features Desk 0 inches; 30 words Type of Material: Correction
Montenegrin church -- An Oct. 2 article on Montenegro ("Understudy to the Riviera") incorrectly identified the church atop the island Hotel Sveti Stefan as Greek Orthodox. It is Serbian Orthodox.


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TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 381 (the country code for Montenegro) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Even Montenegro's highest-rated, luxury hotels are fairly basic by American standards. Many are Soviet-era architectural horrors. Some exceptions:

Hotel Sveti Stefan, 85315 Sveti Stefan; 86-420-000, fax 86-468-223, www.budvanska-rivijera.co.yu/engleski/sstefan.html. The hotel is fabulously situated on its own island in the Adriatic. It is government-owned and rough around the edges but clean and hospitable. Closed mid-October to April. Doubles from $84 , with breakfast .

Hotel Splendido, 85335 Preanj; 82-301-700, fax 82-336-222, www.splendido.nis-naftagas.co.yu. On the northern arm of the Bay of Kotor. In a recently renovated palace with a small pool. Doubles from $55, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT:

I found some great little seafood places, where dinner with local wine costs about $18.

In Sveti Stefan, Pod Maslinom, on the waterfront. Menu includes seafood and meat entrees. Tables are on a pretty terrace overlooking the sea. At night, there is live music.

In Przno, Konora Langust, 86-468-369, on the waterfront. Try a meal of grilled shrimp, salad and a carafe of wine.

In Budva, Jadran, 86-451-028, on the waterfront near the old town. I can't imagine a better place to eat seafood -- grilled calamari especially.

TO LEARN MORE:

National Tourist Organization of Montenegro, 28 Postanski Fah, 85310 Budva; 86-40-20-30, fax 86-40-20-31, www.visit-montenegro.com.

Luminalis, G9 Poslovni Centar, 95000 Bar; 82-303-236 fax 82-303-237. A knowledgeable, dependable Montenegrin travel agency.

-- Susan Spano

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