Marrakesh express

COUSCOUS is one of the world's most extraordinary foods, more delicate than any gnocchi, light as a snowdrift.

It's also terribly misunderstood.

More than just the stuff that comes out of a box, couscous is a whole world of wonderful dishes: sublime stews spooned over the ethereal granules. They can be as luscious as \o7pappardelle\f7 with rabbit ragu or as carefully harmonic as a great pesto. But they also have exotic allure. It might be long-simmered lamb and pumpkin with ginger and saffron, or \o7loup de mer \f7with quince, or perhaps veal and chicken with zucchini and almonds. Chickpeas frequently make an appearance, as do raisins, almonds, dates and spices such as cinnamon and coriander.

"You can push the parameters of couscous the same way you can push pasta," says Paula Wolfert, author of "Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco." "The difference is the couscous grain. Pasta can't compare with it in delicacy."

It's odd that couscous has never caught on here in L.A., despite the Moroccan restaurants that have been part of our dining scene since the '70s. A town that can fall so hard for pasta ought to be able to see the glory of couscous.

A man who's keenly sensitive to the possibilities of couscous is Adel Chagar of Chameau restaurant, probably L.A.'s leading Moroccan chef these days. Most Moroccan restaurants stick to tried-and-true favorites, but he has an inventive, contemporary take on the cuisine he inherits. He puts fashionable duck in his otherwise hyper-traditional \o7bestila \f7(he makes that savory pie with \o7warqa\f7, the crisper hand-made North African cousin of filo). He turns preserved lemons into a dip, serves merguez sausage with chickpea fries and offers almond beignets with lemon cream and honey ice cream for dessert.

The decor of his Fairfax Avenue place is just as contemporary as the food -- think Morocco through a psychedelic kaleidoscope. A whimsical representation of a camel's eyelash runs the length of the ceiling. No hand-washing ritual or belly dancer here. And the menu is seasonal. At the moment, one of Chagar's most impressive dishes is an aromatic lamb shoulder tagine that he serves over delicate vegetable couscous.

Alongside his couscous entrees, he also has side-dish versions of couscous flavored with raisins or pearl onions, none of which is traditional. "Well, of course, this is why we're not in Morocco," he joshes.