Lively Malbecs from Mendoza
THE Times tasting panel met last week to blind-taste current releases of Malbecs from Argentina's Mendoza region. On the panel were restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila, columnist Russ Parsons, staff writer Corie Brown, deputy food editor Betty Baboujon and George Cossette, co-owner of Silverlake Wines. Generally, the panel was impressed with these wines, which were from the 2000 through 2004 vintages. The first group of wines tasted were $18 and under; the second group ranged from about $20 to about $67. Wines in the lower price group were judged to be excellent values.
All the wines were a pleasure to sample, which isn't often the case at such a broad tasting. Unlike many New World reds, their fruit was restrained and they were judiciously oaked. The wines were attractive, lively and very drinkable, with enough acid to make them great food wines. Malbec seems to find its expression in Mendoza with a certain pleasant "brambly" green quality, which often comes with chocolate, floral or cigar box aromas.
The wines are listed, within each price category, in order of the panel's preference.
Argentine Malbecs for $18 and under
2003 Bodega Terrazas de Los Andes. A grown-up, earthy wine, with some nice characteristic Malbec brambliness, plum flavors and aromas of berries and spice. At Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731; Fireside Cellars in Santa Monica, (310) 393-2888; and Beverages & More stores, www.bevmo.com, about $17.
2004 Fincas Patagonicas "Zolo." A spicy, fun wine, with palate-forward red fruit, nice acid and herbal aromas. Young and bright, its elements aren't quite integrated yet. At L & K Market, Santa Monica, (310) 396-0784, $11.
2002 Altos Las Hormigas. Smoky, ripe berry aromas, with a little chocolate. Medium body, with flavors of spice and coffee and a pleasant finish. At Wine House; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111, about $10.
2003 Lomos del Valle "Kaiken." A clearly faceted wine, with aromas of vanilla, spice and herbs. At Wine Country in Signal Hill, (562) 597-8303; and Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 or (800) 76WINEX, about $10.
2003 Bodega Catena Zapata "Alamos." A little closed, but this wine shows some nice varietal typicity and a bit of pleasant barnyard funkiness. Soft and drinkable. At John & Pete's Fine Wines in West Hollywood, (310) 657-3080; and Fine Wine House in Pasadena, (877) 981-6555, about $10.
