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Cocktail museum, cocktail chaser

April 26, 2006|Jenny Hontz | Special to The Times

LAS VEGAS: The name itself evokes the clink of ice in a glass. So it may seem fitting that a museum celebrating the history of the cocktail has just moved into town.

And really, the location couldn't be better. Visitors to the Museum of the American Cocktail can sip a classic or cutting-edge drink as they check out the collection of historical cocktail memorabilia, because exhibits are on display in a room at Commander's Palace restaurant in Aladdin Resort & Casino.

Founded in New Orleans, the museum lost its chance for a permanent home there after Katrina, so when the owners of the original New Orleans Commander's Palace offered space at their Las Vegas branch, the museum founders -- an intrepid band of cocktail professionals, collectors and enthusiasts -- packed up lock, stock and 200-year-old crock jugs and moved into one of the restaurant's banquet rooms in March.

The site turns out to be ideal because the museum supports and inspires contemporary creative bartending as much as it does the rich and colorful history of cocktails.

For The Record
Los Angeles Times Wednesday May 03, 2006 Home Edition Main News Part A Page 2 National Desk 1 inches; 35 words Type of Material: Correction
Commander's Palace chef: An article in the April 26 Food section about the Museum of the American Cocktail in Las Vegas said the Commander's Palace chef was Carlos H. Gula. His last name is Guia.

Vegas, says museum curator Ted "Dr. Cocktail" Haigh, author of "Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails," is "as much now about the culinary and libations industries as gambling. You can get amazing cocktails there."

Museum visitors can sample original creations concocted by founders, mixologist members and celebrity guest bartenders as they peruse exhibits, attend cocktail-pairing dinners or simply try the monthly special cocktail created specifically for the dinners and classes. (Museum president Dale DeGroff, for example, designed the Caipirinha de Uva, a fruit-forward cocktail of muddled lime and grapes, cachaca and flavored rum in March, and museum member and mixologist-seminar leader Tony Abou-Ganim invented April's Ginger Mojito, which combines Bacardi Gold Rum, dry ginger ale, fresh ginger-infused syrup, lime juice and fresh spearmint.)

The museum is the brainchild of Jill DeGroff, wife of former Rainbow Room mixologist, author ("The Craft of the Cocktail") and self-styled "King of Cocktails" Dale DeGroff. One of the centerpieces of the museum's collection of historical cocktail memorabilia is DeGroff's 1795 edition of "The Complete Distiller." Much of the museum's memorabilia is on loan from Haigh's personal collection, which includes pricey rooster-shaped shakers and rare pre-Castro Cuban rum.


Ambitious outlook

IN addition to the DeGroffs and Haigh, founders and board members include a who's who of the cocktail world: Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller, authors of "Shaken Not Stirred: A Celebration of the Martini"; Microsoft executive Robert Hess, founder of the cocktail database; writer-historian Phil Greene, a descendant of the New Orleans family that founded Peychaud's Bitters; and fourth-generation New Orleans barman Chris McMillian.

And the museum is ambitious. Its first American Cocktail Awards ceremony is May 13. Awards will be given in two categories -- aperitif recipes and cocktail menus (actual restaurant and/or bar menus showcasing beverages) -- and will be judged by DeGroff, Hess and Livio Lauro, president of the United States Bartender Guild. Mixologists from around the world are entering recipes. Finalists will be flown to Vegas for a "shake-off"; winners receive gold, silver or bronze olives.

Jacques Bezuidenhout, bar manager of Tres Agaves in San Francisco, has entered two cocktail recipes in the competition: a gin, Campari and passion fruit cocktail named Passion, as well as a Campari and grapefruit cocktail he calls Romanza.

"I love Campari, a spirit that is not used as much anymore," he says about his entries. "I wanted to enter this contest because I love what they are trying to do with the museum and what it represents."

That interest in classic ingredients and classic recipes is shared by many of the museum's supporters. In addition to being the repository for a $250,000 collection of cocktail memorabilia such as vintage shakers and glassware, bottles of rare booze and historic photographs, the museum is a gathering place for professionals and other fine cocktail aficionados. Seminars and demonstrations are held there throughout the year and the museum also cosponsors off-site events at restaurants around the country. Abou-Ganim's recent seminar on making classic cocktails at home featured recipes with lore and legends, demonstrations, a chance for participants to come up and mix drinks, and sampling.

"We won't sample all 10 in the course of an hour and a half," he says, "but maybe four or five."

The museum exhibit, organized chronologically, displays objects from the earliest days of the cocktail, including a copy of an article from a May 1806 edition of Balance and Columbian Repository, a Hudson, N.Y., newspaper. It's the first known published definition of "cocktail" and states that such a drink contains four essential ingredients: spirits, bitters, sugar and water.

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