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At Bastide, hurry up and wait

RESTAURANTS | RESTAURANT JOURNAL

August 30, 2006|Betty Hallock

"BEWARE, Robuchon. Look out, Ducasse. Bye-bye, Gagnaire. The new Bastide is on its way."

Who would make such a statement? Bastide owner (and commercial director) Joe Pytka, that's who. Pytka closed his elegant French restaurant on Melrose Place in January to overhaul its decor and change its focus. But that was eight months ago, and food-loving Angelenos have been wondering: Will it ever open again? And if so, when?


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In January, Pytka had said that he wanted the restaurant to be more reflective of Southern California, but it seems he hasn't made up his mind about what direction to take the restaurant. "One day is white; one day is black," says Bastide chef Ludovic Lefebvre.

"More urban and hip" was the direction Pytka had said he wanted to go, but his latest comment would have us believe he's leaning toward classic French again.

According to Pytka's publicist, Joan Luther, the restaurant could reopen within the next couple of months; she says designer Andree Putman is "refreshing" the decor instead of completely overhauling the space.

But when exactly will it open? In a month? Three? "I wish I knew," Lefebvre says. "I'm a chef who needs his public. I just want to cook for people."

Berkeley-bound

Meanwhile, Bastide veteran Koa Duncan has left the Water Grill after just a year and a half as executive pastry chef to take over Cafe Cacao at the Scharffen Berger factory in Berkeley, where she has been hired to revamp the restaurant.

Her title has yet to be determined, but she says it could evolve into executive chef. "It would be the equivalent of owning my own place," Duncan says. "I've worked with chefs who not only have a strong vision but it's so strong they can't really let you fly right."

Water Grill executive chef David LeFevre says he is looking at several strong candidates for a new pastry chef and is taking on desserts himself for now.

It seems L'Orangerie is also looking for pastry help, according to an ad on Craigslist. Guess that would be a temp job, as the venerated French restaurant is set to close its doors at the end of the year.

This space available

If you have $3.95 million burning a hole in your pocket, you too could be running your own restaurant. The legendary Four Oaks location is up for sale. Since 1903, the secluded Bel-Air site on Beverly Glen has been home to a campground restaurant, whorehouse, tavern and speak-easy.

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