From restaurant to restaurant, the olives speak volumes about the chef

\o7Lucques, Lucques, Lucques at Lucques

\f7The olives for which the restaurant is named are classy, petite and self-contained, a la chef Suzanne Goin.

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\o7Matteo's marinated olive antipasto

\f7 Red Cerignola! Green Castelvetrano! Black Gaeta! Watch out, here comes chef Don Dickman

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\o7Moroccan chic at Tagine

\f7With harissa and preserved Meyer lemons, chef Abdessamad "Ben" Benameur shows post-Paul Bowles style.

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\o7Jumbo pitted California black olive appetizer at Musso & Frank Grill.

\f7A big handful, served on a bed of lettuce, with a toothpick.

-- Amy Scattergood and Leslie Brenner