A city, a bridge and a world away

Wander back down Atlantic to Court Street and then head farther south, perhaps browsing through the staff selections at the fine independent bookstore Book Court, 163 Court St., or checking the wares at one of the funky clothing boutiques before pausing for a delectable raspberry mousse cake at the \o7petite \f7French patisserie Marquet. Continuing down Court, hang a right on Union Street and head toward the East River. You'll soon come to Schnack, 122 Union St., an incomparable spot where for $20 you can stuff yourself and a friend silly with things like French toast with fruit compote, beer milkshakes, mini burgers and serious hot dogs.

DUMBO neighborhood

THE final Brooklyn destination on our list derives its name not from the flying elephant, but from the Manhattan Bridge under which it sits. Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass (DUMBO) is one of New York's most charming neighborhoods. A few places are overrun with tourists who form ridiculous lines at Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory and Grimaldi's Pizzeria and blow their bankrolls at the River Cafe. (If you want dinner with a similar view at a less insane price, try the roof deck at Alma, 187 Columbia St., a rollicking Mexican restaurant near Schnack.)

Again, the key here is getting off the beaten path. Wander a little farther from the bridge and discover peaceful cobblestoned streets and the glorious riverside Empire-Fulton Ferry State Park at 23 New Dock St.

DUMBO is a major artist neighborhood, and you'll find galleries scattered here and there, like Smack Mellon at 56 Water Street. If you visit DUMBO from Oct. 14 to 16, you can really dial up the art by visiting the private studios of a couple of hundred artists during the annual Art Under the Bridge Festival.

As for dining in DUMBO, you have several options. Master chocolatier Jacque Torres sells his wares at 66 Water St. Or get some of the best baguettes outside of France at Almondine, 65 Water St., which prepares all its baked goods on the premises. For dinner, head around the corner to Five Front (it's the address and its name) to eat outdoors on a heat lamp-equipped bamboo-fringed patio with the surreal bulk of the Brooklyn Bridge practically tableside.

I found myself pitying the people zooming by on the bridge overhead not knowing what they were missing as Rie and I sipped passion fruit martinis and enjoyed three-course $20 fixed-price dinners highlighted by sweet corn chowder and succulent hanger steak.