The punk, the bebe and the runner-up

"I print the linings with my own artwork," he says, unbuttoning a navy peacoat to reveal a delicate pink toile print. "It's an English country setting gone awry."

He's right. Upon closer examination, one can see these knicker-clad children are frolicking with machine guns.

Los Angeles Fashion Week may not be influential enough to set trends or lure major players from the East Coast. According to its producers, it's not even financially profitable. Still, the twice-yearly event becomes more strangely interesting with every coming season. The fall season begins today at Smashbox Studios in Culver City with more than 35 shows and a new "denim day," to capitalize on Southern California's chief fashion export.

The schedule is a grab bag of designers, some of whom have traveled from other countries to show at the L.A. week, which is much friendlier to newcomers than its counterparts in New York and Europe. The diverse lineup includes labels with music connections, a "Project Runway" runner-up and contemporary label bebe, where Mischa Barton will grace the front row.

London-based Agent Provocateur is crossing the pond to show lingerie on the flesh-friendly L.A. runways, and Mexican designer Carlo Demichelis, a favorite of Naomi Campbell, is also touching down here for the first time. Meanwhile, Vancouver, Canada-based Chulo Pony arrives stateside for this, the seventh season at Smashbox Studios. Recently picked up by Fred Segal, the label is a product of Nettwerk Music Group, the record/management company that represents Avril Lavigne, Dido and Sarah McLachlan.

Closer to home, the Irvine-based knitwear brand St. John canceled its show last week, unable to get its design house in order in time. Another no-show is Nony Tochterman, who is forgoing fashion week to focus on her new store, House of Petro Zillia, scheduled to open this summer on 3rd Street.

But after showing in New York for several seasons, Jennifer Nicholson -- daughter of Jack -- is coming home. Corey Lynn Calter, known for her whimsical, feminine clothes, is back after a maternity leave, while David Meister, whose $30-million dress business is headquartered in the city of Industry, is introducing an expanded collection.