On the savory side

THE joy of Thanksgiving collaboration takes many forms: one person cooks and everyone else eats, an everyone-brings-something dinner, a joint pie-baking project, a kids-pick-the-vegetables menu. But there's yet another way to partner on the day's cooking -- by ordering ahead and picking up a special dish or dishes to fill the gaps in your menu. The Times' tasting panel sampled 33 side dishes from the Thanksgiving menus of local specialty stores and markets with catering services. Here are some of the tastiest sides we found:

Easy appetizer: Clementine makes a selection of dips to pair with its house-made crostini, above right. The \o7romesco\f7 dip -- a puree of roasted red peppers and nuts with ground dried chiles and hot paprika -- is outstanding ($6.50 per pint; crostini, $2.25 for 15). Also on the menu: lots of desserts, and sides including sage-apple-mushroom stuffing or roasted potatoes. Orders taken through Saturday or until capacity is reached. Pick up Tuesday or Wednesday. (310) 552-1080; www.clementineonline.com.

Great greens: The vegetarian Avanti Cafe in Costa Mesa offers a full holiday to-go menu with turkey-alternative entrees such as stuffed portobellos and squashes and individual pot pies. Earthy side dishes ($13.50 a quart) are a great bet, including these garlicky chard and mustard greens, or try the rutabaga, collards and black-eyed peas. Orders taken through Tuesday; pickups Wednesday. (949) 548-2224; www.avantinatural.com.

Elegant and

individual: If it's a damask-tablecloth affair, the elegant options at Little Next Door in West Hollywood should do the trick. These butternut squash flans ($5 each) satisfy the beta-carotene requirement of the meal in the most sophisticated possible style. There are wild rice flans too and other delicacies including a marvelous rabbit terrine with pistachios ($24 a pound). Order deadline 10 a.m. Tuesday to pick up Wednesday. (323) 951-1010; www.thelittledoor.com.

Sweet harvest: From Cooks Double Dutch in Culver City, this seasonal fruit compote ($5 a serving) is a wonderful complement to roasted poultry, but it might enjoy a place on the dessert table too. Poached Bosc pears and dried fruits are embellished with a rich Burgundy-fruit reduction. Labor intensive? Not for you. Or order an impressive, layered, curried sweet potato gratin. Orders taken through noon Tuesday for pick up Wednesday. Orders placed by Friday receive a free apple crisp. (310) 815-8273, www.cooksdoubledutch.com.