Italian that feels so right

Bastianich sometimes forgets basic information such as waiting until the oil is hot to put ingredients in -- experienced cooks will instinctively do so, but beginners might not. And sometimes times are off. Still, Bastianich is a great cook, and there's much in this book to look forward to. Summer. Fall. Naples. Trieste. \o7Pappardelle\f7 with long-cooked duck sugo. Beefsteak Maremma style.

The photos are gorgeous. There are travel tips from Bastianich's daughter Tanya Bastianich Manuali.

I'll invest in a bigger skillet, because this cookbook's a keeper.

brenner@latimes.com

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Roasted pepper rolls stuffed with tuna

Total time: About 1 hour, 30 minutes

Servings: Makes about 24 small rolls, serving 8 as an hors d'oeuvre

Note: Adapted from "Lidia's Italy" by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. "This tuna filling is delicious on crostini or crackers," writes Bastianich, and "it makes a world-class tuna fish sandwich."

8 to 10 sweet red, yellow or orange bell peppers (about 3 pounds total)

1/3 cup or so extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or to taste

2 (6-ounce) cans tuna packed in olive oil (preferably

imported from Italy)

2 small anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped

2 tablespoons small capers, drained and finely chopped

1 tablespoon apple-cider

vinegar

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Rub the peppers all over with 2 tablespoons olive oil, season with one-half teaspoon salt, and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for about 30 to 40 minutes, turning the peppers occasionally, until their skins are wrinkled and slightly charred.

2. Let the peppers cool completely. Slice in half (through the stem end), discard the stem, peel off the skin with your fingers and a paring knife, and slice the halves lengthwise into strips 2 inches wide. Scrape the seeds from the strips, and lay them in a sieve to drain and dry.

3. To make the stuffing, drain the tuna and break it into flakes in a medium-size bowl. One at a time, mix the seasonings into the tuna with a fork: chopped anchovies, capers, vinegar, mustard, mayonnaise, parsley, 2 tablespoons olive oil, and about one-half teaspoon salt. Stir vigorously, breaking up lumps of fish, until the stuffing is soft and fairly smooth. Add more of any seasoning to taste. This makes about 1 2/3 cup filling.