'It' Or Miss?

THIS fall more than ever, luxury brands are hanging their profits on the handles of some seriously tricked out, dare we say ugly, "It" bags. As the market becomes overcrowded with satchels, hobos, totes and clutches, designers are upping the wow factor with the kind of extraneous straps, buckles, silver plates and zippers one might sooner expect to see on a kustom car. By late July, Prada and Versace already had their bags of the season slung over the shoulders of celebs, building buzz weeks before they even hit stores. Of course, the labels' PR machines duly sent out photos of Madonna, Katie Holmes et al., bags in hand, to magazines and newspapers worldwide. In the coming months, luxury brands will actually host "bag parties," a trend that began last season when Yves Saint Laurent threw a Champagne-soaked party in Beverly Hills, where the guest of honor was the Downtown bag. Luxury megaliths Gucci, Chanel, Prada and Chloe are old pros at this game. But this season, it's not just the usual big-label suspects who are in the running. Now even jewelers, boutique dressmakers and stationery makers are getting into the status bag game. But before you open your old "It" and pull out the plastic to buy a new one, we gathered them all up to evaluate their design, value and, well, OK, practicality. All in all, it may be a good season to buy shoes.

Cartier: The Marcello | $1,000

This pinched-leather wonton of a purse comes in playful colors such as raspberry but opts for an understated perforated logo, which is a nice respite from this season's metal mania. But if you're dropping $1,000 at Cartier, you want a little bit of bling.

Smythson: The Nancy | $1,700

The stationery maker's first foray into "It"-dom is a quilted white doctor-style frame style that bears an unfortunate resemblance to a bag of Stay Puft marshmallows (but that does make it comfy under the arm). The frame keeps the bag's sturdy shape, and the inside is roomy.

Fendi: The To You | $2,300

The most exotic of the bunch, this creature is made of lacquered calf hair, which creates the effect of feathers. Still, with its mother-of-pearl inlay throughout, we don't know if it is fish or fowl. The handle does double duty so it can be a carryall or folded over into a clutch. Points for creativity and versatility, though far from PETA friendly.

Anya Hindmarch: The Lautner | $925