2003 Marisa Cuomo Costa d'Amalfi Furore riserva

Clinging to the steep hillsides of Italy's Amalfi Coast, the tiny town of Furore and the surrounding vineyards make up one of the smallest appellations in Italy. The 2003 Furore riserva from Marisa Cuomo, aged two years, is a blend of 50% of the local grape Piedirosso and 50% Aglianico. Dark in tone, with a firm structure and a taste of ripe plums, it is reminiscent of Zinfandel but has an unexpected elegance. It's made in an area more famous for limoncello than wine, where if you're going to drink anything, it's usually a white. Yet here's this serious red wine. It's not short on tannins either, a gorgeous red for anybody who enjoys something with grip.

It's perfect with moussaka, shepherd's pie, brawny stews and roasts, grilled sausages, etc. Open a bottle on the sly to stump your wine aficionado friends.

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Quick swirl

Region: Costa d'Amalfi

Price: $40 to $46

Style: Rich and full-bodied

Food it goes with: Moussaka, shepherd's pie, roasts and stews

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463, www.hitimewine.net; K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www.winex.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com.

--S. Irene Virbila