2001 Azienda Agricola Cogno Barolo Ravera

Though Barolo prices are generally sky high, there's still some (relative) bargains to be found, such as this one from a great year and a very reliable producer. Cogno's Barolo 'Ravera' has everything that makes these Nebbiolos so enticing -- great color, an aroma of violets, dark fruit and leather, a beautiful mouth feel and lingering finish. These are wines for a relaxing winter evening when you have the time to spend at the table savoring the meal and the wine.

Save a bottle for your best \o7brasato\f7 (braised beef ) or a standing rib roast. If you happen to come into some wild ducks, open two bottles. It's also a great match with roast goose.

Quick swirl

Region: Barolo

Price: About $50

Style: Rich and lush

Food it goes with: Braised beef, standing rib roast, roast goose or duck.

Where you find it: The Wine Club in Santa Ana, (714) 835-6485; and Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639.

-- S. Irene Virbila