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MEMPHIS

On the music trail

Elvis, Aretha and of course, barbecue. Tennessee's twin cities may be different, but both are rich in places to see and music to hear. Here are some highlights.

July 22, 2007

Compared with Nashville, Memphis is more a working-class river town with a blue-collar vibe -- except for lavish Graceland.

GETTING THERE

From LAX, Northwest flies nonstop to Memphis. American, Continental, Delta, Frontier, Northwest, United and US Airways offer connecting service (change of plane). Restricted round-trip fares begin at $228.

WHERE TO STAY

Elvis Presley's Heartbreak Hotel, 3677 Elvis Presley Blvd.; (877) 777-0606, www.elvis.com. Doubles from $110.

The Peabody, 149 Union Ave.; (800) 732-2639, www.peabodymemphis.com. Doubles start at $245.

WHERE TO EAT

Arcade, 540 S. Main, (901) 526-5757, www.arcaderestaurant.com. Closes at 3 p.m. except Fridays (8 p.m.) and Saturdays (4 p.m.).

Neely's Bar-B-Que, 670 Jefferson Ave., (901) 521-9798, www.neelysbbq.com. Not much atmosphere, but the "wet" ribs and special sauce are standouts. Rib dinners: $10.99 to 19.99.

ACTIVITIES

Graceland, 3764 Elvis Presley Blvd.; (800) 238-2000, www.elvis.com. Get the platinum ticket at Elvis' mansion, above, so you can also see his two custom airplanes, and automobiles and memorabilia displays. And leave time for the souvenir shops. Website also has Elvis Week details. Platinum tour: $30 for adults. Graceland tour only: $25. Reservations suggested.

Memphis Rock 'n' Soul Museum, 191 Beale St.; (901) 205-2533, www.memphisrocknsoul.org. The museum has ties to the Smithsonian. Adult admission: $10.

National Civil Rights Museum, 450 Mulberry St., (901) 521-9699, www.civilrightsmuseum.org. Adults: $12.

Stax Museum of American Soul Music, 926 E. McLemore Ave., (901) 946-2535, www.staxmuseum.com. Great trivia: Aretha Franklin was born just blocks away. Adults: $10.

Sun Studio, 706 Union Ave.; (800) 441-6249, www.sunstudio.com. Be sure the tour guide shows you how Johnny Cash first got his odd percussion sound by placing a dollar bill over his guitar strings. Adults: $10.

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