He's a weekend waffle warrior

I'VE got a thing for waffles.

For me, there is no better treat on a Saturday or Sunday morning. I don't care if the rest of my time is spent balancing checkbooks and cleaning out the garage, as long as I've had waffles, it's been a good weekend.

They were one of the first things I fixed when I started learning to cook and they are still one of my favorite indulgences. I've got a feeling that in that I'm not alone -- at least among men. Waffles seem to be one of those "dad" meals, probably because the recipes are so simple any fool can make them acceptably, and it's hard to think of another food with a higher ratio of deliciousness to effort.

As simple as waffles may be to make, they're a little difficult to talk about. That's because there is no such thing as "the waffle"; rather, there are several different kinds. The variations are mostly about texture: Do you want your waffle crisp or cake-like?

Most obviously, there is the difference between deep-pocketed Belgian waffles and their flatter cousins. This is not just a matter of appearances, of course. Those deep indentations do make a difference by increasing the ratio of surface to center. In other words, there's more crisp than cake in a Belgian waffle, and the reverse is true for the flatter ones.

--

Whatever you like

THERE are also several types of batters. Some make waffles that are more substantial and slightly softer -- the caky type. Others emphasize crispness and lightness. All of those batters will work in either type of waffle maker.

Not to waffle, but there are no right or wrong answers: It all depends on what you like. Of course, with my passion for the subject, I have some very definite opinions.

For me, the paragon of the caky style is the sour cream waffle recipe from the older editions of "Joy of Cooking." A standby of the midcentury versions of the book, for some reason, it was left out of later editions.

I tried it the first time because in the dog-eared, batter-stained "Griddlecakes" section of my 1957 edition, I noticed the head note: "These waffles are superlative." Given the nearly pathologically modest nature of the book and its authors (there are almost no other similar endorsements), I had to try them.

And that high praise was no hype. These waffles have an incomparably rich flavor and texture.