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Taking stock

March 28, 2007

I very much enjoyed the article on stocks ["Riches by the spoonful," by Amy Scattergood, March 21]. As an avocational cook of many years now, I have two observations I'd like to offer.

When you denigrate (correctly, in my view) canned stocks, you do not mention several brands of frozen stocks that do contain those noxious additives you decry. These will do very nicely for most ordinary purposes.

You almost casually aver that 10 pounds of veal bones may be easily acquired by asking your local butcher.

Out here in the sticks (for which the customary euphemism is "the Inland Empire"), the neighborhood meat guys would look at me as if I had grown a third eye.

Chicken feet, on the other hand, which you suggest may be difficult to come by, are readily available at any Asian supermarket's poultry section. Well, that's one of the reasons people go out to eat, is it not? The really good chefs at really good restaurants have access to ingredients that many of us do not.

STEPHEN L. GLASS

Claremont

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