The wines below are listed roughly in their order of weight, from the zippiest to the most opulent. The first two are ideal for raw shellfish; the rest will work in varying degrees with other fruits de mer on your plateau.
In retail stores the 2005 vintage seems to be the most current, but occasionally I was able to find older vintages -- 2004 and even a 2002 -- that were useful for comparing the warm 2005 vintage with the more "normal" 2004; the 2003 is by and large out of the market.
Comparing vintages is an imperfect science, but the younger wines tended to be fruitier, more expressive, and their ripeness was quite apparent, whereas the 2004s were generally more settled. When a comparison was possible, I've included it in the notes below.
2005 Francine et Olivier Savary Chablis Selection Vieilles Vignes. Fiercely mineral, especially for the warm 2005 vintage, with aromas of the yeast of levain (sourdough) bread and lime. The palate texture is lean and electric with fine mineral notes of quinine and talc. Without being terribly complex, its texture is thrilling, like grabbing a moving lasso. For the vintage, exceedingly lean, and an ideal oyster wine. Available at Du Vin Wine & Spirits, Los Angeles, (310) 855-1161, www.du-vin.net; Manhattan Fine Wines, Manhattan Beach, (310) 374-3454, manhattanfinewines.com; and the Wine Cask, Santa Barbara, (805) 966-9463, winecask.com. About $20.
2005 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chablis. Drouhin's entry-level Chablis is quite brisk and zinc-like in the nose with a lime-flower scent and fresh, high-arcing apple aromas. This wine has plenty of appley fruit flavor; it's brisk, round on the palate, supported with decent acidity on the back end. Also tasted, the 2006 Chablis (not yet in wide release), another warm vintage, which in its youth is direct and fresh, with pear and apple notes. A ripe wine that is nevertheless vibrant and fruity. At Mel and Rose Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood (where the 2006 is just in), (323) 655- 5557, www.melandrose.com; and Manhattan Fine Wines. $18.
2005 Domaine Jean Collet et Fils Chablis Premier Cru "Vaillons." A rich wine, with aromas of quince and golden apples. The texture shows up the warmth of the vintage on a warm site, with broad golden- and baked-apple flavors leavened by notes of wet stone. Also tasted, the 2004 Vaillons, which was firmer, sleeker and mineral, with very firm texture. Tasting the two side by side is a textbook comparison of a ripe vintage and a cool one. The 2005 is available at the Wine House, West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com. About $39.
