THE NATION - Stirring up nutrition goals for farm bill - For decades Congress has battled over crop subsidies. But this year better school lunches are at the forefront.

Lunches averaged 800 to 900 calories -- much higher than federal guidelines -- and were loaded with salt. "That is just crazy in a world of obesity," Cooper said.

Cooper instituted roasted chicken, a salad bar, fresh fruit and vegetables, and low-fat milk at the Bay Area school district. The onetime gourmet chef and other nutrition experts believe such healthful foods should be served at all schools, but point to a major obstacle: Congress.

Parents, nutrition advocates and physicians want Congress to dramatically overhaul the farm bill -- which sets the nation's agricultural agenda every five years -- to put better food on children's cafeteria trays. The drive to rewrite the bill stalled last week in the Senate, possibly delaying it until next year. But advocates said the setback would give them time to make the case that the bill is to blame for much of the unhealthful food in schools.

"Farm bills always favor the status quo when they're rushed," said Ken Cook, president of the Environmental Working Group. "This gives us some time to educate people."

For decades, farm bill battles have been waged over subsidies. But this year, nutrition has also been at the forefront.

The $288-billion Senate bill would spend more on fruits and vegetables, but children's health advocates say that it still tilts much more toward subsidizing farmers than promoting healthful food. They say they are concerned about rising rates of obesity, diabetes and other diet-driven diseases. Organizations such as the President's Cancer Panel have directly linked agricultural policy and cancer.

For Cooper, who calls herself the "renegade lunch lady," the priority is children's health: "If we want to significantly impact the long-term health of our children, we need to change the food in the center of the plate, the entree. The farm bill negatively impacts the entree by subsidizing food we don't necessarily eat, like corn and soy. There's so much fat hidden in these highly processed foods that end up on our kids' plates."