2004 Sandrone Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore

Made from the same grape that becomes Piedmont's coveted Barbaresco and Barolo, this Nebbiolo d'Alba from Luciano Sandrone, one of Barolo's greatest producers, is a stunner. Structured and graceful, with a haunting note of violets and tar, it's supple enough to drink now, with wine-braised meats, sturdy roasts and earthy pasta dishes. Think wild mushrooms and you've got it. But then this beautiful wine would be just as happy with a plate of Fra' Mani salami or some La Quercia prosciutto.

Quick swirl

Region: Piedmont

Price: $33 to $43

Style: Structured and lush

Food it goes with: Charcuterie and cured meats, earthy pasta dishes, braised meats, roast pork

Where you find it: K&L Wine Merchants in Hollywood, (323) 464-9463, www.klwines.com; Wally's Wine & Spirits in West L.A., (310) 475-0606, www.wallywine.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974- 1454, (800) 769- 4639, www.winex.com; Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479- 3731, www.winehouse.com.

--S. Irene Virbila