The approach is stunning: Spectacular rock formations reveal themselves around every turn on the steep drive up, in brilliant relief against a dark blue sky. Then a thick stand of California fan palms, like nothing you've ever seen--their shaggy beards hang all the way to the ground. They're a little surreal, like a council of elephants conferring in the desert.
This is Indian Canyons, a preserve that belongs to the Agua Caliente band of Cahuilla Indians, and it's one of the best things about Palm Springs.
Yes, we come to the desert to decompress at midcentury boutique hotels with no shortage of spa treatments and mojitos. We love to shop and dine and lounge in the pool and play tennis. But Palm Springs is also a great place to bring the kids, and its hiking trails are as compelling for them as for adults.
At the end of South Palm Canyon Drive you'll find Indian Canyons' entrance. Straight ahead, up in the mountains, is Palm Canyon, with an Indian trading post and a thick oasis that marks the head of a network of trails that wind along cool streams up through rocky hills scattered with a dazzling array of wildflowers in the spring. In those hills are hikes for almost every age and skill level.
With little kids you won't range too far from the several thrilling oases. They'll collect pointed rocks (real arrowheads!) and give chase when whiptail lizard families, soaking up the early-morning sun, scatter off the trails.
With older kids--say, at least 11 or 12--who love to scramble over rocks, consider Murray Canyon. The trail meanders over rocky fields of wildflowers, then follows a cold stream up the mountain to a waterfall. It's a strenuous four-mile round trip, with lots of crossing back and forth over the stream (yes, you'll get your feet wet). Wear bathing suits under the hiking duds because at the top there's an ice-cold pristine pool under the waterfall.
Go early in the morning and you can reward yourselves with brunch on the patio at Norma's, the cafe at the Parker Palm Springs hotel. It's stylish and fun, and has something for everyone: blueberry pancakes the size of flying saucers, sandwiches, ribs--and even the "zillion dollar lobster frittata" with Sevruga caviar. Or stop by Tyler's, right in town, for one of the best burgers in Southern California.
