It's Citrus season again in Hollywood

Mussel chowder is the color of stone, the soup poured over small, beautiful mussels at the bottom of the bowl. Luscious and ever so slightly creamy, it has a graceful lilt to it. Cuttlefish carbonara is another tour de force, which makes Nobu's famous squid "pasta" seem clumsy in comparison. No noodles are involved. Instead, it's tender, sweet cuttlefish cut to resemble fettuccine -- a subtle ode to texture. Escargots is so rich it's better to share than eat all yourself; it's something like an escargots crumble, with the earthy nuggets disposed in three small crocks, each topped with mixed chopped nuts in a parsley sauce.

Lauvand is turning out very polished food at Citrus at Social. Big question: Will the coterie of fine diners from the Westside make it this far east on a regular basis? And will the condominiums and the W Hotel going up in Hollywood be built in time to save the day? From the looks of it, they don't seem to be turning the tables much, even on the weekends.

Main courses, such as lobster with fennel, hold up their end of the menu admirably. One of Richard's signature dishes, a beautiful curl of lobster tail is presented with the perfectly cooked claw on a bed of braised baby fennel. The simplicity of the presentation allows the full flavor of the lobster to come through, brilliantly. Charred and rare duck breast is accompanied by a stack of thick julienned carrots and a silky, refined orange sauce that comes through with just a touch of bitterness that's lovely.

Monkfish is served with a pine nut risotto pinched into a diagonal line and a swirl of caramel Asian-accented duck jus -- and it's about as good as this meaty fish gets (when it's not dried out, as it was on one visit). But how does the chef cook the short ribs for 72 hours and end up with such a fantastic texture -- as if each molecule of the meat is standing at attention? They're cooked sous vide in a special low-temperature oven. Delicious as the short ribs are, I'd almost order them for the fries on the side. Fried in clarified butter, they're crisp and golden-edged on the outside, fluffy and moist inside. Watch out: You'll have to guard these from your dining companions.

The wine list is sophisticated, but not super-extensive, rich in Burgundies and other French wines with California selections that are, on the whole, less interesting.

A fine finish