Slim-fit design trend fattens sales of men's clothing

In tough economic times, men are traditionally the first to cut back -- but the Hales represent a new phenomenon in retailing: Over the last year, men have been on a clothes-buying spree, while women have pulled back even more.

"I did feel for a long period that there wasn't anything new to buy," said Steve Hale, a 37-year-old financial consultant who had stuck with the business casual uniform of khakis and dress shirts since the late 1990s. "But I really like the slim fit. It's not so roomy, not so bulky, and it's a lot cleaner."

The lopsided fortunes -- solid sales gains in menswear and a deepening funk in the far larger women's clothing business -- is creating a rare sales disparity that hasn't been seen in years, said David Wolfe, creative director of Doneger Group, a fashion industry trend and business consulting firm.

Fashion observers say the main catalyst fueling menswear buying is the slimmed-down styles shown on the runways a few years ago by designer Thom Browne that have recently garnered mass appeal. The look is being popularized by AMC's award-winning series "Mad Men" about ad executives in the 1960s.

Over the last year, the fashions, including body-conscious suits and leaner khakis, have been heavily promoted by stores such as conservative haberdashery Brooks Bros. as well as department stores including Macy's and Bloomingdale's.

Executives from those stores said menswear sales began outpacing women's clothing last year. They wouldn't give exact figures for competitive reasons. But the disparity has been widening, said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for research company NPD Group Inc. According to NPD's most recent data, menswear sales rose 0.8% in the fiscal year ended in May, while women's clothing sales fell 3.5%. In the three months ended in May, women's clothing sales dropped 3%, while menswear sales rose 2.3%.

With women's fashions accounting for 65% of the $155-billion adult apparel market, the rising fortunes of menswear -- accounting for just half the size of women's clothing -- hasn't significantly helped lift overall sales. For the fiscal year ended in May, adult clothing sales fell 2%.