Greatest gift for Iraqi Christians -- returning home

Kaseer did flee, along with hundreds of other Christian families from the Dora neighborhood in southern Baghdad, once a vibrant Christian community.

This year, she returned home from Syria, and today attended Christmas Mass with her husband and 7-month-old son.

"It's always better to come home," said her husband Khalid Kamil, 34. "In any other place, you are a stranger. . . . This is not the way our life should be."

Hundreds of Christians gathered to celebrate Christmas in Baghdad, most acknowledging that improved security conditions have allowed them to move more freely throughout the city after returning from years-long exiles in Syria, Egypt, Jordan or Iraq's northern Kurdistan region.

In the Christian neighborhood of Karada on today, a Santa Claus handed out religious CDs and pamphlets, including "25 Stories from the Bible" and "The Greatest Gift." In recent years, an act such as that could have resulted in death.

Christians are estimated to make up less than 3% of Iraq's 27 million population and some reports say that about half fled after the 2003 U.S.-led invasion of Iraq.

At least 600 holiday worshipers packed the Catholic Church of the Virgin Mary in the Karada neighborhood, where a flashing red-and-gold Christmas tree adorned the altar. Women wore their hair uncovered and came dressed in their holiday finest -- festive red sweaters and skirts, bejeweled jeans and knee-high, lace-up boots.

For the first time in memory, the Iraqi government declared Christmas a national holiday. And last week, a community event was held at a local park to celebrate the spirit of Christmas. Large posters depicting a portrait of Jesus and a Christmas tree could be spotted around town.

"As Christians, we feel like we have a real presence in Iraq -- and rights," said Lena Ayat, 19.

"I feel safer," agreed her mother, Lameya Mashreq. "We are free to choose the clothes that we wear."

Randa Nahidh, 40, emerged from the hour-long Mass, which included the singing of traditional Christmas carols, and remarked on the change since last Christmas, when attendance was sparse.

"I was very surprised this year," Nahidh said. "I was very happy because the church was full. It was a beautiful service. There's nothing like the homeland . . . No one likes to live in exile."