Swinging '60s hit the runways

Biba is the famous label by Barbara Hulnicki, and the original cheap chic emporium that counted Bianca Jagger and Twiggy as fans. After being purchased by fashion entrepreneur Michael Pearce (he's credited here with bringing Uggs to Britain), Biba hit the runways last year for the first time under the direction of designer Bella Freud. Saks and Bloomingdale's bought a small number of pieces, but for the most part the brand had little success, probably because the clothes were so 1960s literal.

Well, Pearce wasn't about to give up, so he put stylist Hector Castro in charge. And judging from the show on Sunday, it paid off; starlets should come calling soon if they haven't already.

Castro was able to capture the deep palette, prints and nocturnal romance of the original Biba, and bring the label up to date by ditching the long, sinuous silhouette. The collection was full of fantastic red carpet-ready cocktail frocks, one in teal blue with cascading layers of organza falling to mid-thigh like the petals of a flower, another in a navy and black rose print with a racer back and flippy skirt. A black sequin shift with chiffon ruffles on the sides worn over culottes looked cute, as did a rounded navy wool coat with a back belt, and different incarnations of Biba's classic bow blouse.

But the best look was a purple shift with gold paint daubs, fringe and feather appliqués that brought to mind a Klimt canvas. Sexy, artsy, cool -- the show had it all. Too bad the prices are so astronomical. (Most dresses cost more than $1,000). After all, Biba was never conceived as a luxury brand. And it hardly seems worth reviving the name if you aren't going to revive the spirit.

OSSIE CLARK

Ossie Clark was another influential figure in Swinging '60s London, a designer with the same clientele as Biba. His look is forever captured in David Hockney's 1970 portrait of Clark with his wife and collaborator, printmaker Celia Birtwell, wearing a maxi dress. Clark was known for his maxi dresses and romantic trouser suits, which apparently Marc Worth, co-founder of the trend forecasting service WGSN, thought were ripe for a revival when he bought the brand two years ago. (Los Angeles-based Manny Mashouf, who owns the mall chain Bebe, is also an investor.)

But the debut collection, presented Monday at the Serpentine Gallery and designed by Avsh Alom Gur (formerly of Donna Karan and Chloé), didn't jell. First out was a maxi dress in golden yellow with a V-neck and bell sleeves, followed shortly by a Pierrot-collar organza dress in a brown abstract print, and strangely, an '80s North Beach Leather-era aqua python bomber jacket and pencil skirt. It all looked costumey and not enough today.

Or maybe just too much yesterday.

booth.moore@latimes.com