Many stores showcase high-quality products: silver from Taxco, Talavera pottery from Michoacan, handcrafted stained-glass and leather products. The Cuban cigars at the business association-approved stores are authentic, and tourists can get custom-made furniture and pinatas at the historic arts and crafts market.
"That's what really represents downtown Tijuana," said Andres Mendez Martinez, coordinator of the merchants association. "Quality products and traditional goods from all over Mexico."
For The Record
Los Angeles Times Sunday, February 24, 2008 Bulldog Edition Main News Part A Page 2 National Desk 1 inches; 28 words Type of Material: Correction
Tijuana: An article in the Feb. 17 Section A, about tourists steering clear of Tijuana because of drug violence, omitted the reporter's name. Richard Marosi was the author.
Still, they acknowledge, that's not what Tijuana is famous for these days. It's the bloody battles between police and organized crime that make the headlines.
Since Jan. 1, more than 50 people have been killed across the city, some in wild shootouts that terrified bystanders. Last month, police discovered an organized-crime hide-out near downtown that they said included a training center for hit men complete with a soundproofed basement shooting range.
Recently, the upscale restaurant Hacienda Cien Anos, which once drew tourists, was identified by U.S. authorities as a front for money laundering.
Downtown has been flooded with police and has been largely free of the violence. No bystanders have been killed in the shootouts. A crackdown on corrupt transit cops has resulted in fewer reports of extortion, and merchants immediately report officers who stop tourists without reason, according to police.
Still, the negative image hangs over the city. "In reality, the violence isn't targeting tourists. It's between drug traffickers, criminals and police. But the tourist doesn't know the difference," said Victor Clark Alfaro, director of Tijuana's Bi-National Center for Human Rights.
Meanwhile, merchants say even some of those who haven't been scared off by crime reports may be reluctant to visit because of new, stricter requirements for Americans reentering the U.S. from Mexico -- and fears that the rules will make crossing the border slower. U.S. citizens used to get by at the border crossings with oral declarations of citizenship. Now they need to show proof both of citizenship and identity.
"Americans had 9/11; we had 1/31," said Rojas, the waiter, referring to the date the new rules went into effect.
Aiming to ease the transition to stricter requirements, Baja California tourism officials recently announced a new program called "Get Your Passport" that offers discounts at certain hotels and restaurants to people with U.S. passports.
