Prada makes a power play

MILAN, ITALY – It’s the rare designer who can make a woman look powerful while she’s struggling to walk in shoes that resemble Brancusi sculptures. But that’s the magic of Miuccia Prada, for whom women are always on top.

Tuesday night’s collection was a knockout with models descending a curved runway like superwomen from the sky. Longer length, black pencil skirts sprouted ruffles like wings, with the odd men’s shirt collar peeking out from the neckline of a dress, hinting at a woman’s masculine side.

Come fall, everyone will be wearing lace because this was a collection resplendent in the stuff. In black, brown, navy or gold, lace became three-dimensional, with lace flower appliqués fused on top of full skirts that reached below the knee.

True to Prada’s kinky side, some pieces were see-through, because a woman’s sexuality is part of her power. Hair was slicked back into severe buns and secured with lacy leather hair nets (the new turban). Jewelry was modern – molded resin collars and cuffs. Purses were understated – a black calf, hand-held tote with a ruffle of leather on either side. And those shoes, sculptures strapped to the feet, they reached a new level of artfulness.

Which is important, because Milan Fashion Week is as much about the latest leather goods and accessories as it is about the clothes. And the field is getting increasingly competitive. Dolce & Gabbana and Marni have recently opened accessories boutiques here. And the way Burberry has been amping up its shoe and bag offerings, it could be next.

Following the cult favorite, heavily studded Warrior bag in stores now, Burberry launched the Lowry studded tote on the fall runway Monday night. Spike necklaces are also on offer. But the most head-turning accessory is a hand-painted feather scarf, which will set you back somewhere in the neighborhood of $2,500. Ouch.

Bally breaks out

Outside of the runway shows, dozens of brands this week host accessory presentations at showrooms and hotels, to showcase the latest baubles, bags and shoes.

Bally is a name that’s getting more attention, in no small part because of its dreamy designer, Brian Atwood. In recent months, Jessica Alba has been spotted with handbags by the brand, which is cultivating a casual West Coast cool.

Glossy brown pumps in an innovative patent ostrich skin are great looking, as are the multi-strap, peep-toe “Guniga” Mary Janes in distressed luggage brown leather with hidden platforms.

The hot new bag is the Ionia, a hobo-style with slanted, zippered pockets on the outside, and a braided leather handle. And I loved the shearling lined ballet flats. Mmm …

There is also a small group of Bally clothes inspired for fall by the boho 1970s, including fringed shawls, shearling vests, paisley print maxi-dresses, ribbed cashmere leggings, jewel encrusted belt buckles and bloomer pants tucked into slouchy boots.

Betting on bags

Jeweler Bulgari is building its leather-goods empire with a new section of the South Coast Plaza store devoted to bags, and with a newly hired creative director for accessories.

On Tuesday, the brand hosted a presentation of fall offerings with GianLuca Lera, who was inspired for fall by the Renaissance and archival Bulgari jewelry, among other things. The best-looking daytime bag was cocoa brown, pleated leather with coin pouches on either side and a chunky chain handle. In the evening line, floral damasks are combined with velvets and stones on clutches that are jewelry in and of themselves, especially with clasps inspired by 1970s Bulgari brooches.

booth.moore@latimes.com