BONG! Boahhhnnggg, bonggggg! "Haieeee dozo!" Bonggggg.
Thunderous rumblings reverberate from a taiko drum the size of a Honda Civic. The instrument, which sits near the exit of the new Shin-Sen-Gumi in Monterey Park, signals each customer's departure. "Dewa mata nochi hodo!" ("See you later!"), bellows a pack of black-clad employees in unison, bowing low as people leave.
The wacky routine mimics the boisterous throw-your-cares-to the wind ambience of old-fashioned izakaya, Japanese pubs, where male workers loosened their ties, tossed back drinks and downed flavor-packed tidbits.
Newer, hipified takes on these Japanese pubs may boast flashy decor, global cuisine and mango martinis, but there are still a few that aim to preserve the traditional spirit of such places -- ever so slightly tongue-in-cheek.
Shin-Sen-Gumi and, in Little Tokyo, Honda-Ya are wildly successful examples. When the originals opened more than a decade ago, their patrons tended to be Japanese nationals. As the festive fun of eating a bit of this and a bit of that (along with plenty to drink) caught on with a growing and diverse crowd, both places opened additional locations. Recently, each has set up shop in larger quarters.
The latest Honda-Ya brings a cheery spark of life to the third floor of the Little Tokyo Shopping Center. There's a feeling you could be in a Tokyo suburb, maybe because you can stop before dining at the huge Mitsuwa Marketplace on the ground floor to stock up on yuzu and pocky sticks.
Late hours and a long and varied menu make the cozy, rustically decorated spot a wonderful place for a light meal before or after a concert or an art opening. Sit in a booth or, if you're alone, at the rustic communal table in front of the glassed-in kushiyaki bar and watch the cooks turning their skewers at the charcoal grill (the Japanese steak with grilled mushrooms is terrific).
If you reserve one of the tatami rooms, your party can spend an evening hanging out and comparing sake styles or experimenting with the various sojus made from barley, rice or sweet potato.
Some dishes on the vast menu -- tempura-fried wieners come to mind -- may be popular in Japan, but more widely appealing are such classic items as sauteed eggplant in miso sauce, garlic greens with bacon and stewed pork buta kakuni.
